🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil for your Grand Cherokee. This keeps the 6.4L engine lubricated, prevents wear, and helps the oil cooler and lifters stay happy.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the SUV with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let it cool 15–30 minutes to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep the ignition OFF and the key/fob away from the vehicle while you’re underneath.
• ⚠️ Don’t overtighten the drain plug—stripped threads can mean an expensive oil pan repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Socket set (metric)
• 13mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap or strap type)
• Trim clip tool
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-40 full synthetic, MS-12633 equivalent) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off (warm drains faster, not scorching hot).
• Open the hood and loosen/remove the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front safely

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the SUV onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Look under the front for the belly pan/splash shield.
• Use a ratchet (3/8") with your socket set (metric) to remove the fasteners.
• If there are plastic clips, pop them out using a trim clip tool. (A trim clip tool is a small pry tool that removes plastic push-pins without breaking them.)
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket with a ratchet (3/8") to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Push in while unthreading to reduce drips.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing surface using shop rags.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• If your drain plug uses a crush washer, replace it now.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range) with a 13mm socket to tighten: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil filter area (it will drip when removed).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cap or strap type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the filter (a stuck gasket can cause a big leak).
• Wipe the filter mounting surface with shop rags.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a gloved finger).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the base.
• Tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn. Hand-tight is correct here.

Step 7: Refill with the correct oil

• Place a funnel in the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 7 quarts of 0W-40 full synthetic (MS-12633 equivalent).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, then verify oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and look underneath with safety glasses for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Wait 3–5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check the dipstick and top off if needed (add small amounts, recheck).

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the belly pan/splash shield using the ratchet (3/8") and socket set (metric).
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 10: Reset the oil life indicator

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the dash menu to the Oil Life screen.
• Press and hold OK to reset oil life to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick after your first short drive and top off if needed.
• Inspect the driveway/garage floor for drips over the next day.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or parts store—don’t dump it.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $160-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$160 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.