How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2007 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with tools, parts, oil capacity, torque specs, and leak checks
How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2007 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with tools, parts, oil capacity, torque specs, and leak checks


đź”§ Altima - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil to protect your Altima’s engine from wear. Doing it on schedule helps prevent sludge buildup and keeps oil pressure healthy.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if you just drove.
- ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to reduce smoke/odor.
- ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is a skin irritant.
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 8-quart)
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Oil filter wrench 65mm 14-flute
- Funnel
- Rags or shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shut the engine off, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Gather everything first—once you drain oil, you don’t want to hunt for tools.
- Warm oil drains faster than cold oil.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the car
- Use a floor jack to lift the front at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car down onto jack stands placed at the proper support points.
- Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.
Step 2: Remove the oil fill cap (top of engine)
- Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand.
- This helps the oil drain more smoothly from the bottom.
Step 3: Drain the old engine oil
- Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug.
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
- Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
- Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new drain plug crush washer.
Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug
- Thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
- Use a torque wrench with a 14mm socket and Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- Wipe the area clean with rags or shop towels.
Step 5: Remove the old oil filter
- Move the drain pan
- Use an oil filter wrench 65mm 14-flute to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
- Make sure the old rubber gasket (seal) is not stuck to the engine. If it is, peel it off by hand. (That gasket is the rubber ring on the filter’s top.)
Step 6: Install the new oil filter
- Put a small dab of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (helps it seal and come off next time).
- Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
- If you must use the wrench to snug it, do it gently—over-tightening can cause leaks later.
Step 7: Refill with new oil
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
- Pour in about 4.5 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic first.
- Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.
Step 8: Start the engine and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter area.
- Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle back into the pan.
Step 9: Set the oil level on the dipstick
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull again to read the level.
- Add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time) using the funnel until the level is near the top mark.
- Total fill is typically around 4.8 quarts with filter, but always trust the dipstick over the number.
âś… After Repair
- Re-check for leaks after a short 5-10 minute drive.
- Confirm the dipstick level is still correct after the drive.
- Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly (most parts stores accept it for free).
- Write the mileage/date on a note in the engine bay.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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