🔧 Lancer - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

Changing your A4’s engine oil and oil filter keeps the engine lubricated, cool, and clean. This job is mostly basic hand tools, but you must lift the front safely and avoid burns from hot oil.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; hot oil can burn skin quickly.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil drips happen.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the drive belt and exhaust components.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this service.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (7-quart minimum)
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (cup or strap type)
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Funnel
• Shop rags

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine 2–3 minutes (helps oil drain), then shut it off and let it cool 15–30 minutes.
• Lay cardboard down to catch drips.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the left and right front support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any small bolts holding the shield.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips (pry the center pin up, then pull the clip out).
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place a drain pan (7-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip.
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug crush washer.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove and replace the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (7-quart minimum) under the oil filter (oil will spill when it comes off).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cup or strap type) to loosen the filter. (This tool grips the filter can so you can turn it.)
• Spin the filter off by hand and let it drain into the pan.
• Use shop rags to wipe the engine’s filter mounting surface clean.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the engine (a “double gasket” can cause a big leak).
• Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil (dip a gloved finger in new oil).
• Install the new filter by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.

Step 5: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reposition the shield and install clips with the trim clip removal tool (press outer body in, then press center pin flush).
• Install bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet snugly (do not overtighten plastic).

Step 6: Refill with new oil

• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
• Use a funnel and add 4.6 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 7: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3–5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert fully, then recheck.
• Add oil in small amounts if needed to reach the full mark (avoid overfilling).
• Look underneath for leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
• Write the mileage/date on a note.

---

✅ After Repair

• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or parts store—do not dump it.
• Recheck the dipstick the next day (after a short drive) and top off if needed.
• If your A4 shows an oil maintenance reminder, reset it using the cluster maintenance screen per the owner’s manual.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$85 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.