🔧 Highlander - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter element, then refill with the correct oil. This keeps your engine protected, reduces wear, and helps maintain fuel economy.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool-to-warm engine, not hot (burn risk).
• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and set the parking brake before lifting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; oil can splash when the plug comes out.
• ⚠️ Do not disconnect the battery for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket extension (3"-6")
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter cap wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty)
• Small pick tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter element (cartridge style) - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🛠️ Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• 🧻 Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower onto them.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Open the lower cover access (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove bolts for the small service door/under cover section.
• If there are plastic clips, use a flathead screwdriver to pop the center up, then remove the clip.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a ratchet (3/8" drive) to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old drain plug gasket (crush washer) and install the new oil drain plug gasket (crush washer).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) with a 14mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags so you can spot leaks later.

Step 5: Remove the cartridge-style oil filter housing

• Move the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil filter housing area (more oil will spill).
• Use the oil filter cap wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) with a ratchet (3/8" drive) and socket extension (3"-6") to loosen the oil filter housing/cap.
• Unscrew the housing the rest of the way by hand and lower it carefully into the drain pan.
• The housing is plastic—go steady.

Step 6: Replace the filter element and O-rings

• Pull the old filter element out of the housing and install the new oil filter element (cartridge style).
• Use a small pick tool (specialty) to remove the old O-ring(s) from the housing. (A pick tool is a small hooked tool used to lift O-rings out of grooves.)
• Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh oil from your new bottle, then install them into the correct groove(s).
• Wipe the housing and sealing surfaces clean using shop rags.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque the oil filter housing

• Thread the housing in by hand until the O-ring seats.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) with the oil filter cap wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) to tighten the housing: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags.

Step 8: Reinstall the lower cover access

• Reinstall the under cover/service door hardware using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Make sure all clips/bolts are snug and the panel isn’t hanging down.

Step 9: Refill with engine oil

• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
• Pour in 6.4 quarts of SAE 0W-20 full synthetic to start (you’ll fine-tune the level after running).
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 10: Start, check for leaks, and verify oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert fully, then recheck.
• Add oil as needed to reach the full mark (do not overfill).
• Look underneath at the drain plug and filter housing for any seepage.

Step 11: Reset the maintenance reminder light

• Turn ignition to ON (do not start).
• Use the trip button to display ODO (not Trip A/B).
• Turn ignition OFF.
• Press and hold the trip reset button, then turn ignition to ON while still holding.
• Keep holding until the display shows dashes/zeros and the maintenance light resets.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Recheck the dipstick the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
• 🛑 Confirm there are no drips under the engine after a short test drive.
• ♻️ Pour used oil into sealed containers and take it to an oil recycling center/auto parts store that accepts used oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $50-$85 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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