🔧 Tacoma - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll be draining the old oil, replacing the oil filter cartridge and O-rings, then refilling with fresh oil. This keeps your 3.5L V6 lubricated, cool, and long lasting.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the truck with jack stands if you lift it; never rely only on a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes so hot oil does not burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; used oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake fully engaged and chock (block) rear wheels so the truck cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Clean any spilled oil immediately; it is very slippery on concrete.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center or parts store; never dump it on the ground.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🧰 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–80 ft-lb range)
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 Trim clip remover tool
• 🧰 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (Toyota style) (specialty)
• 🧰 Large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (medium or large)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver
• 🧰 Shop rags or paper towels
• 🧰 Nitrile gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🛠️ Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic, API SN or better) - Qty: 7 quarts (you will use about 6.2 quarts)
• 🛠️ Engine oil filter cartridge kit (with large and small O-rings, and drain plug cap if included) - Qty: 1
• 🛠️ Engine oil drain plug crush washer (14mm) - Qty: 1
• 🛠️ Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine sit 15–30 minutes after driving so the oil is warm but not scalding.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl in and out from under the truck repeatedly.
• If you want extra room, raise the front with the floor jack and support it securely on jack stands under the frame rails.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open hood and remove oil fill cap

• Pull the hood release, then open the hood and secure the prop rod.
• Twist the engine oil fill cap (on top of the engine cover) counterclockwise by hand and set it aside. This lets oil drain faster.

Step 2: Position truck and drain pan safely

• Use the floor jack to lift the front if desired, then place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
• Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug (rear of the oil pan, under the engine).

Step 3: Remove skid plate / under cover (if equipped)

• If your Tacoma has a front skid plate blocking access, use the 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the bolts at the front and rear of the plate.
• Use the trim clip remover tool or flathead screwdriver to release any plastic clips holding plastic under covers.
• Lower the skid plate carefully and set it aside. Note bolt locations for reassembly.

Step 4: Drain the engine oil

• Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
• Using the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, carefully loosen the oil drain plug (rear of oil pan) counterclockwise.
• Finish removing the plug by hand while pressing it in lightly until you’re ready, then pull it away quickly so oil flows into the drain pan.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to a drip (about 5–10 minutes).

Step 5: Install new crush washer and drain plug

• Clean the drain plug with a rag and remove the old crush washer.
• Install the new crush washer onto the plug.
• Wipe the sealing surface on the oil pan with a clean rag.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Locate the oil filter housing

• The oil filter housing is a black plastic/cap type on the bottom front of the engine.
• Slide the drain pan under the filter housing, as more oil will come out.

Step 7: Drain oil from the filter housing

• On this style, there is a small center drain plug in the oil filter cap.
• Use the 3/8" ratchet in the square hole (or appropriate small socket if present) to loosen and remove the small drain plug carefully; some oil will begin to drain.
• Allow oil to drain from the housing into the pan until it slows to a drip.

Step 8: Remove the oil filter cap and cartridge

• Place the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) over the oil filter housing cap.
• Attach the 3/8" ratchet to the cap wrench and turn counterclockwise to loosen the housing.
• Once loose, unscrew the cap by hand and carefully lower it; the old filter cartridge will be inside.
• Pull the old filter cartridge straight out of the housing and let any remaining oil drip into the pan.

Step 9: Replace O-rings on the filter cap

• Use the flathead screwdriver gently to lift off the large O-ring from the filter cap and the small O-ring from the small center drain plug.
• Clean the cap and threads with a rag.
• Lightly coat the new large and small O-rings (from the filter kit) with a bit of clean engine oil using your finger.
• Install the new O-rings into the same grooves where the old ones were. Do not twist the O-rings.

Step 10: Install new filter cartridge and filter cap

• Push the new filter cartridge firmly into the housing on the engine or into the cap (either way is fine; it will seat when tightened).
• Screw the filter cap back onto the housing by hand, making sure the threads start smoothly.
• Use the 64mm cap wrench and torque wrench to tighten the filter cap to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the small center drain plug with the new small O-ring and tighten with the 3/8" ratchet to about 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) (snug, not very tight).

Step 11: Clean up under the engine

• Spray a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe around the drain plug and filter housing to remove oil residue.
• Confirm there are no active drips from the drain plug or filter housing.

Step 12: Reinstall skid plate / under cover

• Lift the skid plate or under cover back into position.
• Install all bolts by hand first, then tighten them with the 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Reinstall any plastic clips using the trim clip remover tool or by pressing them back in firmly.

Step 13: Lower the truck (if raised)

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the truck carefully back onto the ground.

Step 14: Refill engine with fresh oil

• Place the funnel in the oil fill opening on the engine.
• Pour in about 5.8 quarts of 0W-20 oil to start (do not dump all 7 quarts).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand, turning clockwise until snug.

Step 15: Start engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look under the truck with a flashlight: check around the drain plug and filter housing for any leaks.
• If you see drips, shut off the engine and gently snug the leaking part with the appropriate socket and torque wrench to the spec above.

Step 16: Check and adjust oil level

• Turn off the engine and wait 5 minutes so oil drains back into the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull it again to check the level.
• If below the top dot, add oil in small amounts (about 0.2–0.3 quarts at a time) through the funnel, rechecking until the level is near the upper mark.
• Total capacity with filter is about 6.2 quarts (5.9 L), so do not overfill.

Step 17: Reset the maintenance reminder (if displayed)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to go to Menu > Settings > Maintenance Reset on the instrument cluster screen.
• Select oil maintenance and confirm reset according to the on-screen prompts.

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and recheck the oil level, topping off if needed.
• Look under the truck again to ensure there are no new oil leaks.
• Make a note of the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due.
• Store your tools and dispose of used oil and the filter properly at a recycling point or auto parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45–$80 (parts only)

You Save: $75–$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop about 0.8–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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