🔧 Canyon - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter element, and refills with fresh oil. Doing it on schedule helps prevent engine wear and keeps your oil life system accurate.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 10–20 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to prevent smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and the filter properly at a recycling center.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–60 ft-lbs range)
• 24mm socket
• Extension bar (3"–6")
• Flat trim tool
• 10mm socket
• Funnel
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 Gen 2) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter element (cartridge type) - Qty: 1
• Oil filter cap O-ring (usually included with filter) - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Canyon on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand to help the oil drain quicker.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front (if needed for access)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) under the frame and lower onto them.
• Give the truck a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before crawling underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Look under the front of the engine for a plastic shield/cover.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the bolts.
• If there are plastic clips, pop them out with a flat trim tool (a pry tool for push-clips).
• Set the shield and fasteners aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish removing the plug by hand while pressing inward slightly, then pull it away quickly so oil flows into the pan.
• Let it drain until it’s down to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Wipe the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface with shop rags.
• Install a new drain plug gasket/washer if your plug uses one.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the oil filter element (cartridge)

• From the top of the engine bay, locate the oil filter housing cap (black plastic cap at the front/top area of the engine).
• Place shop rags around the housing to catch drips.
• Use a 24mm socket, extension bar (3"–6"), and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the cap.
• Pull the old filter element off the cap.
• Remove the old cap O-ring and install the new O-ring (usually included). Lightly coat it with fresh oil using a gloved finger.
• Push the new filter element onto the cap until it seats.

Step 6: Reinstall and torque the oil filter housing cap

• Thread the cap into the housing by hand first.
• Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench and 24mm socket: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Hand-starting prevents damaging the housing threads.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the shield.
• Install bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall clips using the flat trim tool if needed.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 5.5 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic dexos1 Gen 2 first.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick. Add oil as needed to reach the full mark (typically ends up around about 6 quarts total with filter).

Step 9: Check for leaks

• With the engine running briefly, look underneath for leaks at the drain plug area.
• Look around the oil filter housing cap (top of engine) for seepage.
• Wipe any spilled oil with shop rags.

Step 10: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to open the Driver Information Center oil life screen.
• Press and hold the SEL (check mark) button until oil life resets to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short 5–10 minute drive, then recheck the dipstick on level ground and top off if needed.
• Recheck for drips under the truck after the drive.
• Pour used oil into sealed containers and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹4,000-₹8,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹5,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹1,500-₹2,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.