🔧 Ranger - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil life monitor. This keeps your Ranger’s turbo engine properly lubricated and helps prevent engine wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine if possible; hot oil can burn.
• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands on the frame; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep oil off belts/hoses and wipe spills immediately (oil is slippery).
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Oil filter wrench
• 27mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 full synthetic, Ford spec) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm oil drains faster. Let it idle 2–3 minutes, then shut it off.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the front jacking point.
• Set the truck down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the truck a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Set up your drain pan

• Slide a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Keep shop rags nearby for drips.

Step 3: Remove the splash shield access (if equipped)

• If a lower shield is blocking access, use a flat trim tool to pop the retainers, then use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket as needed to remove fasteners.
• Move the panel aside so you can reach the drain plug and filter area.

Step 4: Drain the engine oil

• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish removing the plug by hand while pushing inward slightly, then quickly pull it away to avoid an oil splash.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug

• Replace the oil drain plug gasket, then thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with a 13mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the oil filter (choose the path that matches your Ranger)

• How to tell which you have: If you see a round cap with a big hex on top of the engine, you have a cartridge-style filter. If you see a metal can-style filter underneath, you have a spin-on filter.

Step 6A: Cartridge-style oil filter (top cap)

• Place shop rags around the filter housing area to catch drips.
• Use a 27mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the filter cap.
• Pull the cap and old filter element out, then remove the old filter from the cap.
• Install the new filter element onto the cap.
• If your new filter includes new O-rings, replace the cap O-ring(s) and lightly coat them with fresh oil using a gloved finger.
• Thread the cap in by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and 27mm socket: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 6B: Spin-on oil filter (underneath)

• Move the drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil filter area (it will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Wipe the mounting surface with shop rags and confirm the old gasket didn’t stick to the engine.
• Lightly oil the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil.
• Install the new filter by hand until the gasket contacts, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield access (if removed)

• Reposition the shield and install fasteners using a flat trim tool and 3/8" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket as needed.

Step 8: Refill with new engine oil

• Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 5.5 quarts first, then install the oil fill cap.
• Start the engine and let it idle 30–45 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off as needed (typical total is about 5.7 quarts with filter). Add in small amounts and recheck.

Step 9: Reset the oil life monitor

• Key on (engine can be off).
• Using the steering wheel controls, navigate the cluster menu: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Select reset and hold OK until it confirms the reset.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter area.
• Recheck the dipstick after a short drive and top off if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling location or auto parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$170 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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