🔧 XT4 - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

Changing the oil and oil filter keeps your turbo engine lubricated and helps prevent wear and sludge. You’ll drain the old oil, replace the filter, then refill with the correct 0W-20 oil and reset the oil life monitor.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support your XT4 with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 10–20 minutes; oil can burn skin.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust components.
• ⚠️ Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Torque wrench (10–50 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set: 7mm socket
• Socket set: 10mm socket
• Socket set: 15mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Oil filter cap socket: 24mm socket
• Oil filter wrench (strap type)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic, dexos1-approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter (cartridge or spin-on, per your XT4) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/seal - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand (this helps it drain).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of your XT4

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set it down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 7mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove the small screws.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) for any larger bolts (some shields use both).
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any plastic push-clips without breaking them. (A trim clip tool is a forked pry tool made for plastic fasteners.)
• Set the shield hardware aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket with a ratchet (3/8" drive) to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Replace the drain plug gasket/seal (if it’s a separate seal) before reinstalling.
• Reinstall the drain plug and tighten with a torque wrench (10–50 ft-lbs range): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Replace the oil filter (choose the option that matches your XT4)

• Option A (cartridge filter with a plastic cap):
• Locate the filter housing and clean around it with shop rags so dirt can’t fall inside.
• Use a 24mm socket with a ratchet (3/8" drive) to loosen the filter cap slowly.
• Pull the cap and old cartridge out, then remove the old filter from the cap by hand.
• Replace the cap O-ring (it usually comes with the new filter) and lightly coat it with fresh oil using a gloved finger.
• Install the new cartridge filter onto the cap, then reinstall the cap.
• Tighten the cap with a torque wrench (10–50 ft-lbs range): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Don’t overtighten—plastic caps can crack.

• Option B (spin-on metal filter underneath):
• Position the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the filter area.
• Use an oil filter wrench (strap type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the engine (a “double gasket” will leak).
• Fill the new filter about halfway with fresh oil (if it mounts vertically) and wipe a thin film of oil on the new gasket.
• Install the new filter by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand (no wrench for final tightening).

Step 5: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reinstall the shield using the 7mm socket and 10mm socket with the ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Snug the fasteners—these are small screws and strip easily.

Step 6: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic, dexos1-approved) (start with about 5 quarts).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off as needed to reach the full mark.
• Wipe any spilled oil with shop rags.

Step 7: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to open the Driver Information Center.
• Navigate to the Oil Life screen, then press and hold the reset/confirm button: Press and hold SET/CLR.
• Confirm the reset to 100% when prompted.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter area.
• Recheck the oil level on the dipstick after a short 5–10 minute drive.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter at an oil recycling drop-off (most parts stores accept it).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $50-$160 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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