How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2018 Toyota Prius (0W-20, Cartridge Filter)
Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and maintenance light reset for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2018 Toyota Prius (0W-20, Cartridge Filter)
Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and maintenance light reset for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Prius - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement
On your Prius, an oil change means draining the old engine oil and replacing the cartridge-style oil filter element inside the filter housing. Fresh oil and a new filter protect the engine and help it run efficiently, especially on hybrids that do lots of start/stop driving.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Make sure the car is OFF (not in READY). Keep the key/fob away so it can’t power on.
- ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot. Let it cool 15–30 minutes before draining.
- ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses to avoid burns and splashes.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Drive-on ramps (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
- 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter element kit (cartridge type, includes O-rings) - Qty: 1
- Engine oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, press the brake, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Power the car OFF and keep the key/fob at least 10 feet away.
- If possible, let the engine run a few minutes to warm the oil slightly, then shut it off and wait 15–30 minutes.
- Raise the front using ramps or a floor jack and support with jack stands. Chock the rear wheels.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap
- Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (by hand) on top of the engine.
- This helps the oil drain faster.
Step 2: Lift and secure the front of the car
- Drive onto drive-on ramps, or lift with a floor jack and place the car on jack stands.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
Step 3: Open the lower engine cover access panel
- Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the small access door fasteners in the under cover (some fasteners may be clips).
- If you have plastic clips, gently pry them with a small flathead screwdriver to avoid breaking them.
Step 4: Drain the engine oil
- Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Let the oil drain completely into the drain pan (usually 5–10 minutes).
- Remove the old drain plug gasket/washer and install the new one.
- Reinstall the drain plug by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Replace the oil filter element (cartridge style)
- Locate the oil filter housing (a round cap-style housing near the drain plug area).
- Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the filter housing cap.
- Once loose, finish unscrewing by hand and lower it carefully—oil will spill.
- Pull the old filter element out of the housing by hand.
- Use a pick tool (specialty) to remove the old O-ring(s) from the cap, then install the new O-ring(s) from the filter kit.
- Reinstall the new filter element into the housing.
- Screw the housing cap back on by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Lightly oil the new O-ring first.
Step 6: Reinstall the access panel
- Reposition the under cover access door.
- Use the 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to reinstall bolts, and press clips back in by hand.
Step 7: Refill with oil
- Lower the car back to the ground (remove jack stands or back off the ramps).
- Place a funnel in the oil fill opening.
- Pour in SAE 0W-20 full synthetic, starting with about 4.0 quarts.
- Reinstall the oil fill cap (by hand).
Step 8: Start, check for leaks, then set the oil level
- Start the car normally and let it run for 30–60 seconds.
- Turn the car OFF and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
- Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off slowly until it reaches the full mark.
- Total fill is typically about 4.4 quarts with a filter change, but always follow the dipstick.
Step 9: Reset the oil maintenance reminder
- Turn the car to ON (not READY) and use the steering wheel controls.
- Try this path on the multi-information display: Settings (gear icon) > Vehicle Settings > Maintenance System > Oil Maintenance > Reset > Yes.
- If your menu looks different, tell me what options you see under Settings, and I’ll give the exact path.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
- Verify the oil level again after the engine has been off for 5 minutes.
- Dispose of used oil and the filter properly—most parts stores and many service shops accept waste oil.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹3,500-₹7,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹4,500 (parts only)
You Save: ₹1,000-₹2,500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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