🔧 Charger - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

On your Charger, the engine oil lubricates and cools the 5.7L HEMI. Replacing the oil and filter on schedule prevents engine wear and keeps oil pressure stable.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the rear wheels before lifting.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 20-30 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the drive belts and exhaust; it can smoke and smell.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap or band type)
• Flat trim clip tool
• 8mm socket

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic, MS-6395 compatible) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Engine oil filter (5.7L HEMI fitment) - Qty: 1
• Drain plug crush washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• Warm the engine 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and loosen the oil fill cap (this helps oil drain).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point and lift the front.
• Place jack stands at the left and right front support points, then lower onto the stands.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before crawling under.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• If your Charger has a belly pan/splash shield under the engine, remove fasteners using an 8mm socket and a flat trim clip tool.
• Set hardware aside so it goes back in the same places.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then remove it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it becomes a slow drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Clean the drain plug with shop rags. Replace the drain plug crush washer if your plug uses one.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags so leaks are easy to spot later.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cap or band type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the filter. If it sticks to the engine, peel it off with a shop rag. Double-gasket causes big leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put on nitrile gloves if you haven’t already.
• Dip a finger in new oil and lightly oil the new filter’s rubber gasket.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand (no wrench tightening unless access forces it).

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reinstall the belly pan/splash shield using the 8mm socket and flat trim clip tool.
• Make sure no clips are missing and nothing is hanging down.

Step 8: Add new oil

• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (raise slightly, remove stands, then lower).
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 6.5 quarts of SAE 5W-20 full synthetic first.
• Install the oil cap, start the engine for 30-45 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 3-5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off to the full mark (typically ends up around 7 quarts total with filter).

Step 9: Reset the oil life indicator

• Turn ignition to ON/RUN (engine off).
• Press the accelerator pedal fully and release 3 times within 10 seconds.
• Turn ignition OFF.
• Start the engine and confirm the oil change reminder is cleared.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Shut off the engine, wait 3-5 minutes, then re-check the dipstick level and adjust.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling center/parts store—do not pour it out.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$115 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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