How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2016 Toyota Camry (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, 0W-20 oil capacity, cartridge filter O-rings, and torque specs
How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2016 Toyota Camry (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, 0W-20 oil capacity, cartridge filter O-rings, and torque specs
🔧 Camry - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
This service drains old engine oil, replaces the oil filter element, and refills with fresh oil. Doing it on schedule protects your engine from wear, sludge, and oil-pressure issues.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Engine oil and exhaust parts get hot; let the engine cool 20–30 minutes to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and splash unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Keep oil off the drive belts and electrical connectors.
- ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and the filter properly (parts stores often accept used oil).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 7-quart)
- Funnel
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension (3"-6")
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range)
- 10mm socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench
- Oil filter housing drain tool (specialty)
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter element (cartridge type) - Qty: 1
- Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
- Open the hood and loosen the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.
- Set up your drain pan and shop towels before you start.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved support points and lower onto them.
- Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover access panel
- Position the drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the engine area.
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the bolts for the oil service access panel.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any push-clips without breaking them (this tool helps pry clips out cleanly).
Step 3: Drain the engine oil
- Locate the oil drain plug on the oil pan.
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
- Finish unthreading by hand and quickly pull the plug away so oil drains into the drain pan.
- Remove the old crush washer and install the new oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) on the plug.
- Reinstall the drain plug by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 4: Drain and remove the oil filter housing
- Locate the oil filter housing (cartridge-style) at the front/bottom area of the engine.
- Place the drain pan under the filter housing.
- Install the oil filter housing drain tool (specialty) to drain the housing (this tool opens the housing drain so it doesn’t dump oil everywhere).
- After it finishes draining, use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (3"-6") to loosen and remove the filter housing cap.
- Pull out the old oil filter element (cartridge type).
Step 5: Replace O-rings and install the new filter
- Use shop towels to wipe the housing and sealing surfaces clean.
- Replace the O-rings using the oil filter housing O-ring set (typically one large O-ring on the cap, and a smaller one for the drain plug on the cap if equipped).
- Put a light film of fresh engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) on the new O-rings with a gloved finger. Helps prevent pinching.
- Insert the new oil filter element (cartridge type) into the housing/cap as designed.
Step 6: Reinstall and torque the filter housing
- Thread the filter housing cap on by hand until the O-ring seats.
- Tighten using the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench and a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- If you removed a small drain plug in the housing cap, reinstall and snug it with the appropriate tool from your drain kit, then wipe clean with shop towels.
Step 7: Reinstall the lower engine cover access panel
- Reinstall clips with the trim clip removal tool as needed.
- Reinstall bolts using the 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
Step 8: Refill with fresh oil
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
- Add engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic), starting with about 4.5 quarts.
- Reinstall the oil fill cap.
- Start the engine for 30–60 seconds, then shut it off and wait 5 minutes.
- Check the dipstick and top off as needed (typical fill with filter is about 4.6 quarts). Don’t overfill.
Step 9: Reset the maintenance reminder
- Key ignition: Use the stalk/buttons to set the display to Trip A, turn ignition OFF, press and hold the trip reset button, turn ignition ON (do not start), keep holding until the reset completes.
- Push-button start: Press START twice without pressing the brake (ignition ON, engine OFF), set to Trip A, turn ignition OFF, then hold the trip reset while pressing START twice again until reset completes.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine running, look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
- Re-check the oil level on the dipstick after your first short drive and top off if needed.
- Pour used oil into a sealed container using the funnel and take it (and the old filter) to a recycling drop-off.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















