🔧 ProMaster - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with the correct oil. This keeps your A4—sorry, your ProMaster—lubricated, prevents engine wear, and helps it run smoothly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the van with jack stands, not just a jack.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot. Let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if needed.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts, exhaust, and tires. Clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center/parts store—never dump it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 24mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip tool
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge kit (includes O-ring) - Qty: 1
• Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help oil drain quicker.
• Assumption: Your ProMaster uses the 3.6L cartridge-style oil filter housing (24mm cap) and a 13mm drain plug.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the van

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the van onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) before going underneath.

Step 2: Access the drain area (if an under-cover is in the way)

• Slide your drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan area.
• If a splash shield blocks access, remove clips using a trim clip tool.
• Use a ratchet and 13mm socket to remove any shield bolts if equipped.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a ratchet and 13mm socket to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish unthreading by hand and pull the plug away quickly so oil flows into the pan.
• Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing area using shop rags.
• Install a new drain plug crush washer (if equipped/required).
• Thread the drain plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) and 13mm socket: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove and replace the oil filter (cartridge type)

• Find the oil filter housing on top of the engine.
• Place shop rags around the housing to catch drips.
• Use a ratchet and 24mm socket to loosen the filter cap (turn counterclockwise).
• Lift the cap out and pull the old filter cartridge off the cap.
• Remove the old O-ring from the cap using your fingers (don’t scratch the plastic).
• Install the new O-ring from the oil filter cartridge kit.
• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new O-ring (use a dab of new oil from the bottle). Helps prevent leaks.
• Push the new filter cartridge onto the cap until it snaps/seats fully.
• Reinstall the cap by hand until snug.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) and 24mm socket: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Refill with new engine oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 5W-20 full synthetic engine oil: start with 5.5 quarts.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 7: Start, inspect, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug area (use safety glasses).
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle.
• Check the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, then recheck.
• Top off as needed to reach the safe/full range (usually total is about 6 quarts with filter).

Step 8: Reinstall any splash shield and lower the van

• Reinstall the splash shield using the ratchet and 13mm socket, and any clips with the trim clip tool.
• Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower fully.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the oil level after a short 5-10 minute drive and top off if needed.
• Check again for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter housing.
• Reset the oil life reminder (common method): key to ON (engine off), press accelerator fully 3 times within 10 seconds, then key OFF.
• Pour used oil into a sealed container and recycle the oil and filter.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.