🔧 Odyssey - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

Changing the oil and oil filter keeps your A4’s engine lubricated, cool, and protected from wear. You’ll drain the old oil, replace the filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil-life system.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• ⚠️ Hot oil can burn—let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if it’s fully hot.
• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands before going under it; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; oil on tires/brakes is dangerous.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart)
• Funnel
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Oil filter wrench (65mm, 14-flute) (specialty)
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Shop rags

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock both rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm oil drains faster. Idle 2-3 minutes, then shut off.
• Gather a drain pan and rags; oil will drip when the filter comes off.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front pinch weld/side support points and lower onto the stands.
• Give the van a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the access panel/splash shield.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips (this tool lifts the clip without breaking it).
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a small tray.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the oil pan drain bolt.
• Use a 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain bolt.
• Finish unthreading by hand and pull the bolt away quickly so the oil streams into the pan.
• Let it drain until it slows to a drip (usually 5-10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall drain bolt with a new crush washer

• Remove the old washer from the drain bolt and install the oil drain plug crush washer (new).
• Thread the drain bolt in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with a 17mm socket: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the oil filter area (oil will spill here too).
• Use an oil filter wrench (65mm, 14-flute) (specialty) to loosen the filter.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand and keep the open end up to reduce mess.
• Use shop rags to wipe the filter mounting surface clean.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (a stuck gasket can cause a major leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Dip a gloved finger in new oil and lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket (helps it seal).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine surface.
• Tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn, or use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with the oil filter wrench (65mm, 14-flute) (specialty): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
• Hand-tight is usually enough. Don’t over-tighten.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the shield.
• Reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool (press clips fully seated).
• Reinstall bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the van from the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic).
• Fill amount (with filter change): about 4.5 quarts, then adjust to the dipstick.
• Wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick and top off to the upper mark (do not overfill).

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and recheck level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30-60 seconds.
• Shut it off and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Wait 2-3 minutes, then recheck the dipstick and top off if needed.

Step 10: Reset the oil life (Maintenance Minder)

• Method A (dash/i-MID): Use steering wheel buttons to go to Settings > Vehicle Settings > Maintenance Info, then select Reset.
• Method B (SEL/RESET knob): Turn ignition to ON, use the SEL/RESET knob to display oil life, press and hold ~10 seconds until it blinks, then press/hold again to confirm reset.

---

✅ After Repair

• Verify the oil level is at (or just below) the top dipstick mark.
• Look for drips after your first short drive, then recheck the dipstick once more.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center/auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
• Write the mileage/date on a note or in your phone for the next service.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.