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2016 GMC Canyon
2016 GMC Canyon
Base - V6 3.6L
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[HOW TO] Change Engine Oil on a 2015-2022 V6 Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon (The Best on YT)

[HOW TO] Change Engine Oil on a 2015-2022 V6 Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon (The Best on YT)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2016 GMC Canyon (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step oil change instructions with required tools, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil-life reset

How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2016 GMC Canyon (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step oil change instructions with required tools, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil-life reset

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🔧 Canyon - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

Changing your oil and filter keeps your Canyon’s engine lubricated, cool, and clean. You’ll drain the old oil, replace the filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil-life monitor.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Hot oil can burn you; let the engine cool 15–30 minutes.
  • ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone; always use jack stands.
  • ⚠️ Keep oil off belts/exhaust; wipe spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for an oil change.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench
  • Oil filter wrench (band or cap style)
  • Funnel
  • Trim clip tool
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface, shift to 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Warm the engine 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
  • Assumption: your 3.6L uses a spin-on oil filter and ~6 quarts with filter.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the truck

  • Use a floor jack to lift at the front jacking point.
  • Set the truck down onto jack stands and gently shake the truck to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Use a trim clip tool to remove any push-clips.
  • Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any bolts holding the shield.
  • Set the shield hardware aside so you don’t lose it.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

  • Position a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
  • Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
  • Clean the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface with shop towels.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Install a new drain plug gasket/washer if your plug uses one.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading, meaning damaged threads).
  • Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with a 15mm socket: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

  • Move the drain pan under the oil filter (it will spill).
  • Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (a “stuck gasket” can cause a leak).
  • Wipe the filter mounting surface clean with shop towels.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

  • Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger (nitrile gloves).
  • Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn by hand.
  • Hand-tight is usually correct.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

  • Reposition the shield and reinstall fasteners using a trim clip tool and 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Lower the truck and refill with new oil

  • Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the truck.
  • Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
  • Use a funnel and add 5.5 quarts of 5W-30 dexos1 to start.
  • Wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick and top off gradually to reach the full mark (typically ends up close to 6 quarts total).

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and recheck level

  • Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
  • Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
  • Shut the engine off, wait 5 minutes, then recheck the dipstick and top off if needed using the funnel.
  • Wipe any spilled oil with shop towels.

Step 10: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

  • Turn the key to ON (engine OFF).
  • Use the steering wheel controls to navigate the Driver Information Center to the oil life screen.
  • Press and hold the reset/confirm button until oil life resets to 100%.

✅ After Repair

  • Verify the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick after a short drive.
  • Confirm there are no fresh drips under the truck the next morning.
  • Pour used oil into sealed containers and take it to a service shop or authorized used-oil collection point near Panipat for proper recycling.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90–$170 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55–$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7–1.0 hours.


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