🔧 F-250 Super Duty - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This job drains the old engine oil and replaces the oil filter so your engine stays lubricated and protected. On your F-250, the key is using the correct oil grade and not over-tightening the drain plug or filter.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and set the parking brake.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands any time you lift the truck; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; oil will drip unpredictably.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to prevent smoke/odor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Oil filter wrench (cap or strap type)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic or synthetic blend) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧰 If you raise the front, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the frame.
• 🧰 Warm the engine for 3–5 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• 🧰 Have your drain pan and rags ready before loosening anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (best-effort): Your 6.2L uses SAE 5W-20 and about 7 quarts with a filter change; verify your under-hood label/owner’s manual if it differs.

Step 1: Secure the truck and set up for draining

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• If you need more room, raise the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Slide a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.

Step 2: Remove the oil fill cap and dipstick

• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand.
• Pull the dipstick up slightly (or remove it) to help the crankcase vent so oil drains smoothly.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Use a 19mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish unthreading the plug by hand while pushing inward slightly, then pull it away quickly to reduce splashing.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 10–15 minutes).
• Clean the drain plug with shop rags and replace the oil drain plug gasket/washer if equipped.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with a 19mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• If it doesn’t thread easily, stop and re-align.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (oil will spill when the filter comes off).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cap or strap type) to loosen the filter. (An oil filter wrench is a tool that grips the filter canister so you can turn it.)
• Spin the filter off by hand and keep the open end up as you remove it.
• Wipe the sealing surface on the engine with shop rags.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
• Hand-tight is correct—tools usually over-tighten.

Step 7: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
• Pour in 6.5 quarts first, then pause.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.

Step 8: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle.

Step 9: Set the final oil level

• Check the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert fully, then recheck.
• Add oil in small amounts (about 1/4 quart) using the funnel until it reaches the full mark.
• Do not overfill.

Step 10: Reset the oil life monitor

• Turn the key to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to navigate the dash menu: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Select Reset and confirm.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧾 Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
• 🧾 Recheck the dipstick level the next morning on level ground and top off if needed.
• 🧾 Pour used oil into sealed containers and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.