🔧 Escape - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

On your Escape, the engine oil lubricates and cools internal parts, and the oil filter traps dirt and metal particles. Changing both on schedule prevents engine wear and keeps oil pressure and timing components happy.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Let the engine cool 15-30 minutes to avoid burns from hot oil and exhaust parts.
• 🛑 Support the Escape on jack stands (never rely on a floor jack alone).
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🛑 Keep oil off belts and rubber hoses; wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for an oil change.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (strap-type)
• 7mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20, meeting Ford WSS-M2C945-A / WSS-M2C946-A) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• 🧰 Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• 🧰 Gather oil and a drain pan. You don’t want to leave the engine empty while searching for supplies.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the Escape

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front center jacking point.
• Set the Escape onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved pinch weld locations.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable. Stable first, then work underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Some Escapes have an under-cover that blocks access to the drain plug/filter.
• Use a 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the small screws.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any plastic push-clips without breaking them. (A trim clip tool is a fork-shaped pry tool made to remove plastic clips cleanly.)
• Assumption: Your Escape has a lower cover; if not, skip this step.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
• Finish unthreading by hand and pull the plug away quickly so the oil streams into the pan.
• Let it drain for 5-10 minutes until it slows to an occasional drip.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing surface with shop towels.
• Install a new drain plug gasket / O-ring (if your plug uses one).
• Thread the plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 Nm range) with a 15mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil filter (more oil will spill here).
• Use an oil filter wrench (strap-type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the filter (it can stick to the engine). Double-gasket causes major leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Wipe the filter mounting surface with shop towels.
• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a gloved finger).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.
• Do not use the oil filter wrench (strap-type) to tighten unless you cannot grip it; over-tightening can damage the gasket.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the cover.
• Use the trim clip removal tool to align and re-seat push-clips.
• Use the 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to reinstall screws snugly (do not strip plastic).

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the Escape off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel to add 5.5 quarts of SAE 5W-20 first.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, then set final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Check the dipstick, then top off as needed using the funnel.
• Total fill (oil + filter) is typically about 5.7 quarts; always use the dipstick as final authority.

Step 10: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Method A (menu): Key ON (engine OFF) and use steering wheel controls to navigate: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset, then press and hold OK to reset to 100%.
• Method B (pedals, if menu not available): Key ON (engine OFF), press and hold brake and accelerator together for about 20 seconds until the display confirms reset.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Re-check the dipstick the next day (after a short drive) and top off if needed.
• 🧪 Inspect the driveway for fresh drips for the next 1-2 trips.
• ♻️ Pour used oil into the empty oil containers and take it (and the old filter) to a recycling drop-off/parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.