How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2009-2016 Toyota Corolla (0W-20 Synthetic) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, leak checks, and maintenance light reset
How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2009-2016 Toyota Corolla (0W-20 Synthetic) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, leak checks, and maintenance light reset for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Corolla - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
This service drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter element, and refills with fresh oil. Fresh oil protects your engine from wear and helps it run smoothly.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on a level surface and set the parking brake.
- 🛑 Use jack stands (never rely on a jack alone).
- 🛑 Engine oil can be hot—wear gloves and safety glasses.
- 🛑 Keep oil off drive belts and exhaust parts.
- 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension (3"-6")
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
- Trim clip removal tool
- 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench
- Oil filter housing drain tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter element (cartridge type) - Qty: 1
- Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧰 Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
- 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧰 Raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper front support points.
- 🧰 Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap (lets oil drain more smoothly).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower engine cover access panel
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the small service door (or front portion of the splash shield) under the engine.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out any plastic clips without breaking them.
Step 2: Drain the engine oil
- Place the drain pan (at least 6-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Let the oil fully drain (usually 5-10 minutes).
- Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug gasket (crush washer).
- Reinstall the drain plug by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 3: Drain the oil filter housing
- Move the drain pan (at least 6-quart) under the oil filter housing (front underside of the engine).
- In the center of the filter housing is a small drain plug.
- Use a 3/8" drive ratchet (fits directly into the plug) to remove the small drain plug.
- Install the oil filter housing drain tool (specialty) (this tool opens the internal drain so the housing can empty with less mess).
- Let it drain until it slows to a drip, then remove the drain tool.
Step 4: Remove the filter housing and replace the filter
- Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (3"-6") to loosen and remove the filter housing.
- Pull the old oil filter element out of the housing and install the new one.
- Replace the large O-ring on the housing with the new one from the oil filter housing O-ring set.
- Lightly coat the new O-ring with fresh 0W-20 oil using a gloved finger. Prevents pinching and leaks.
- Reinstall the filter housing and tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Reinstall the filter housing center drain plug
- Replace the small O-ring on the center drain plug (from the oil filter housing O-ring set).
- Reinstall the center drain plug using a 3/8" drive ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Refill the engine with oil
- Insert a funnel into the oil filler opening.
- Pour in Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic)—start with about 4.0 quarts.
- Reinstall the oil filler cap.
Step 7: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing (use safety glasses).
- Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
- Check the dipstick, then add oil as needed to reach the full mark. (Total fill is typically about 4.4 quarts with filter.)
Step 8: Reinstall the lower engine cover access panel
- Reinstall the panel using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool for clips.
Step 9: Reset the maintenance reminder
- Turn the ignition to ON (engine off).
- Use the dash button to display Trip A.
- Turn the ignition OFF.
- Press and hold the trip reset button, then turn the ignition to ON (engine off) while still holding.
- Keep holding until the display shows the reset/zeros, then release.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Take a short 5-minute drive, park, and re-check for leaks.
- 🧪 Re-check the dipstick level after 5 minutes and top off if needed.
- ♻️ Pour used oil into the empty oil bottles and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$65 (parts only)
You Save: $55-$165 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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