🔧 TLX - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

Changing your oil and filter keeps your engine lubricated, cool, and clean. On your TLX, you’ll drain the old oil from the oil pan, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct 0W-20 oil and reset the oil life reminder.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 10–20 minutes before draining.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately to prevent smoke/burning smells.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 7-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (3"-6")
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute) (specialty)
• 10mm socket
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Trim clip removal tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and loosen/remove the oil fill cap (this helps oil drain smoothly).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the left and right front support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped/needed)

• Position your drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the engine area.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts holding the splash shield.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 and/or trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Locate the oil pan drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan.
• Use a 17mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and 3/8" drive extension (3"-6") to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish removing the plug by hand, then quickly pull it away so the oil streams into the drain pan.
• Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer

• Remove the old oil drain plug crush washer from the drain plug and install the new one.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 Nm range) and 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• If it won’t start by hand, stop and realign.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use the oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute) (specialty) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the filter.
• Spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright as you remove it.
• Wipe the engine’s filter mounting surface with shop towels.
• Confirm the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a big leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil (use a dab from the new oil bottle).
• Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the base.
• Tighten the filter an additional 3/4 turn by hand (or use the oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute) (specialty) gently). Do not over-tighten.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reposition the shield and reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool (to align) and push them in by hand.
• Reinstall bolts using the 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Refill with fresh engine oil

• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Place a funnel in the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 4.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic to start.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3 minutes.
• Check underneath for leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
• Check the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert, then read again.
• Add oil in small amounts (a little at a time) using the funnel until the level is near the upper mark. Don’t overfill.

Step 10: Reset the oil life (Maintenance Minder)

• Center screen path (common): Use the screen controls to go to Home > Settings > Vehicle > Maintenance Info > Reset.
• Gauge/steering wheel method (alternate): Use the steering wheel buttons to open Settings > Vehicle Settings > Maintenance Reset, then select reset.
• If the exact menu wording differs slightly, look for Oil Life or Maintenance Minder and choose Reset.

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✅ After Repair

• Re-check the dipstick level after your first short drive (5–10 minutes).
• Confirm the oil life shows 100% (or reset state) and no maintenance reminder remains.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling drop-off (many parts stores accept it).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $85-$145 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.