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2014 GMC Sierra 1500
2014 - 2021 GMC Sierra 1500
V6 4.3L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Change Oil 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

How to Change Oil 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
3/8
3/8
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How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step oil change instructions with required tools, parts, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil life reset for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step oil change instructions with required tools, parts, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil life reset for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sierra 1500 - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills with the correct oil. Doing it on schedule protects the engine from wear and helps the oil life monitor stay accurate.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
  • ⚠️ Always support the truck with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
  • ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately with shop towels.
  • Battery disconnect is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
  • Oil drain pan (10-quart minimum)
  • Oil filter wrench (cap or band style)
  • Funnel
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved) - Qty: 8 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped/separate) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
  • Warm the engine for 3–5 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
  • If you need extra space, lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the frame.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the hood and loosen the fill cap

  • Remove the oil fill cap by hand (top of the engine) and set it aside.
  • Pull the dipstick out slightly by hand (1–2 inches). This helps the crankcase vent while draining.

Step 2: Position the drain pan

  • Slide an oil drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
  • Place shop towels nearby for cleanup.

Step 3: Remove the drain plug and drain the oil

  • Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
  • Keep inward pressure on the plug as you unthread it, then pull it away quickly so oil flows into the pan.
  • Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Wipe the drain plug and the sealing surface with shop towels.
  • If your plug uses a replaceable gasket/washer, install the new one by hand.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
  • Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with a 15mm socket: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

  • Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter area (it will spill).
  • Use an oil filter wrench (cap or band style) to loosen the oil filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter (it can stick to the engine). Double-gasket causes big leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

  • Wipe the filter mounting surface clean using shop towels.
  • Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a gloved finger with nitrile gloves).
  • Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
  • If you can’t tighten by hand due to space, use the oil filter wrench only lightly (do not crush the filter).

Step 7: Refill with new oil

  • Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
  • Pour in 7.5 quarts first (SAE 5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved).
  • Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, then top off

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
  • Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter (use safety glasses).
  • Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle.
  • Check the dipstick and add oil as needed to reach the “full” mark (typically ends up around 8 quarts total with filter).

Step 9: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

  • Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
  • Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the Driver Information Center: Menu > Oil Life.
  • Press and hold SET/CLR until it resets to 100%.

✅ After Repair

  • Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
  • Verify the oil level one more time on level ground after the engine has been off 5 minutes.
  • Pour used oil into a sealed container and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off/parts store.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$110 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.


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