🔧 Malibu - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills with fresh oil so your engine stays protected. On your Malibu, the oil filter may be a top-mounted cartridge style or an under-car spin-on style—steps below cover both.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Let the engine cool 20-30 minutes to avoid burns from hot oil and exhaust parts.
• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands or ramps; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep oil off belts and the exhaust; spilled oil can smoke and smell.
• 🛑 Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; used oil is a skin irritant.
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 7-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• 24mm socket
• Oil filter wrench
• Flat trim tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1-approved) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved support points and lower onto them.
• Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: (If equipped) Remove the lower splash shield/access panel

• Use a flat trim tool to pop out any plastic clips.
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with the correct socket (as fitted) to remove any small fasteners.
• Set clips/fasteners aside so they don’t get lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Install a new oil drain plug gasket/washer if your plug uses one.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Replace the oil filter (choose the filter type you have)

• Option A: Top-mounted cartridge filter (under the hood)
  • Locate the oil filter housing cap on top of the engine.
  • Use a 24mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the cap slowly.
  • Lift the cap and old cartridge out; pull the old filter off the cap.
  • Replace the housing cap O-ring if your new filter includes one.
  • Lightly coat the new O-ring with fresh oil (use a little from your new oil bottle).
  • Install the new cartridge onto the cap, then reinstall the cap and tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • A torque wrench sets exact tightness.
• Option B: Under-car spin-on filter
  • Position the drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the oil filter area.
  • Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter (not stuck to the engine).
  • Wipe the sealing surface with shop towels.
  • Lightly oil the new filter’s gasket with fresh oil.
  • Install the new filter by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand (do not use the filter wrench to tighten).

Step 5: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1-approved) slowly (start with about 4.5 quarts).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 6: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3-5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter.
• Check the dipstick, then add oil as needed to reach the full mark.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the car

• Reinstall the splash shield using the flat trim tool (clips) and 3/8" drive ratchet (fasteners).
• Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum), then lower the car.

Step 8: Reset the Oil Life monitor

• Method 1 (Driver Information Center): Turn ignition to ON (engine off), use steering wheel buttons to find Oil Life, then press and hold SET/CLR until it resets to 100%.
• Method 2 (If the above menu isn’t available): Turn ignition to ON (engine off), fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds, then verify Oil Life resets.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick after a short 5-10 minute drive and top off if needed.
• Confirm there are no drips under the car the next morning.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling location/parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.