🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil in your Rogue. This keeps the engine lubricated, cool, and clean so it lasts longer and runs smoothly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool at least 20–30 minutes so hot oil and parts do not burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; used oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake fully applied and chock the rear wheels so the Rogue cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center; never dump oil on the ground or in drains.
• 🔎 Your Rogue uses an aluminum oil pan; do not overtighten the drain plug or you can strip the threads.
• 🔎 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton or higher, Qty: 2)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–75 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (strap, cap, or band type) (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel (small to medium)
• Shop rags or paper towels
• Latex or nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Plastic trim clip remover (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter (spin-on) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1
• Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
• Disposable gloves - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Let the engine cool until it is warm to the touch, not hot. Warm oil drains faster.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl in and out from under the car repeatedly.
• Plan where you will take the used oil and filter for recycling (local workshop or recycling center).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the front of the Rogue

• Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Position the floor jack (3-ton) under the front center jacking point (under the front subframe/crossmember, just behind the front bumper).
• Pump the jack until the front wheels are off the ground high enough for you to slide under comfortably.
• Place jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds behind each front wheel (the metal seam under the door area).
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands using the floor jack, then gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
• Leave the floor jack lightly touching the subframe as an extra safety backup.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine splash shield

• Slide your drain pan and tools nearby so they’re within reach.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the front lower engine splash shield (plastic cover under the engine).
• Use a plastic trim clip remover or flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips holding the shield.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside where you won’t step on it.
• Take a quick photo to remember bolt locations.

Step 3: Loosen the oil filler cap and dipstick on top

• Open the hood using the interior release and the hood latch at the front.
• Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine cover; it will be marked “Engine Oil” or have an oil can symbol.
• Twist the oil filler cap counterclockwise by hand to loosen and remove it; set it aside.
• Pull out the engine oil dipstick (yellow handle), wipe it, and reinsert loosely. This lets air in so oil drains faster.

Step 4: Drain the old engine oil

• Slide under the front of your Rogue with the drain pan, 14mm socket, and ratchet.
• Locate the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. The oil drain plug is a single bolt on the rear or side of the pan.
• Position the drain pan directly under the drain plug, slightly toward the rear (oil will shoot out at an angle first).
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to carefully loosen the drain plug counterclockwise. Once it’s loose, finish removing it by hand.
• Pull your hand back quickly as the oil starts flowing into the drain pan.
• Let the oil drain until it is just dripping; this may take 5–10 minutes.
• While it drains, clean the drain plug with a rag and remove the old crush washer from the plug.
• Install the new drain plug gasket onto the drain plug.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug with correct torque

• When the oil is down to a slow drip, wipe the area around the drain hole with a rag.
• Thread the drain plug with new washer back into the oil pan by hand, turning clockwise. Make sure it spins easily and is not cross-threaded.
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to snug the plug.
• Set your torque wrench to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs). Do not over-tighten.
• Wipe away any oil around the plug so you can later see if there are leaks.

Step 6: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area. On the Rogue, the filter is mounted on the front/side of the engine block, accessible from underneath.
• Use your hand first to try to turn the oil filter counterclockwise. If it is too tight, use the oil filter wrench.
• Once loose, unscrew the filter by hand, keeping the open end pointed up as much as possible.
• Some oil will spill; let it drain into the pan.
• Check the engine’s filter mounting surface to ensure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there. Only one rubber gasket should remain (on the new filter later).

Step 7: Install the new oil filter

• Take the new oil filter out of the box.
• Dip a clean finger into the used oil or fresh oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter. This helps prevent leaks.
• Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a clean rag.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand. Turn it clockwise until the gasket first contacts the mounting surface (you will feel it touch).
• Once the gasket touches, turn the filter an additional 3/4 turn (about a half-turn plus a bit) by hand. This is usually enough tightening for a spin-on filter.
• If your filter has a torque spec and you have the right cap-type filter wrench, you can tighten to about 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs), but hand-tight is normally sufficient.

Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield

• Lift the lower engine splash shield back into position under the front of the Rogue.
• Start all bolts and clips by hand so they line up correctly.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to gently snug the bolts. They only need to be snug; do not over-tighten and crack the plastic.
• Reinstall all plastic clips using your fingers or the plastic trim clip remover to press them in.

Step 9: Lower the Rogue back to the ground

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 10: Add new engine oil

• Back at the top of the engine, place a funnel in the oil filler opening.
• Your 2.5L engine takes about 4.6 liters (4.9 quarts) with filter, but it’s safer to start low and top up.
• Pour in 4.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic oil through the funnel.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand, turning clockwise until snug.
• Fully insert the dipstick.

Step 11: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• While it idles, look underneath (from the front, without crawling under) with a flashlight.
• Check the oil drain plug area and the oil filter area for any dripping oil.
• If you see drips, shut the engine off and slightly snug the filter (by hand) or the drain plug (with 14mm socket and torque wrench back to 34 Nm / 25 ft-lbs).
• Turn off the engine and wait at least 5 minutes to let oil drain back to the pan.

Step 12: Check the oil level and top off

• After 5–10 minutes, pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, then reinsert fully.
• Pull it out again and look at the oil level. It should be between the “L” (Low) and “H” (High) marks, ideally near the top mark.
• If it is below the top mark, add oil through the funnel in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time), then recheck the dipstick.
• Do not fill above the top mark; overfilling can cause engine problems.
• Once the level is correct, reinstall the dipstick and make sure the oil filler cap is tight.

Step 13: Reset the maintenance reminder (if displayed)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off) if needed.
• On the steering wheel, use the buttons to navigate the display between the gauges.
• Go to Menu > Settings > Maintenance or similar (wording may vary slightly).
• Select Oil or Oil and Filter and choose Reset or Set Distance according to your maintenance schedule (often around 5,000–7,500 miles).

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and recheck the oil level with the dipstick once more after a few minutes. Top off if needed.
• Look under the Rogue again for any fresh oil spots where you park.
• Confirm that any “Maintenance” or “Oil Change” reminders are reset in the dash menu.
• Store your tools and note the date and mileage of the oil change for future reference.
• Pour the used oil from the drain pan into sealed containers and take it, along with the used filter, to a recycling center or auto shop that accepts used oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $80–$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$70 (parts only, depending on oil brand)

You Save: $45–$70 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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