🔧 Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with the correct oil. This keeps your engine lubricated, reduces wear, and helps prevent sludge buildup.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

Assumption: Your Cherokee has the 2.4L cartridge-style oil filter in a top-mounted housing.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support the Cherokee with jack stands or ramps (never rely on a jack alone).
• 🛑 Engine oil gets very hot—let the engine cool 20-30 minutes to avoid burns.
• 🛑 Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to prevent smoke/odor.
• 🛑 Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is a skin irritant.
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Metric socket set
• 13mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Flat trim tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter cartridge - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring (usually included with filter) - Qty: 1
• Drain plug sealing washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• If you raise the front end, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the approved lift points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the oil fill cap and dipstick

• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand.
• Pull the dipstick up slightly (or remove it). This helps the oil drain smoothly.
• Set them somewhere clean.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
• Use a flat trim tool and your metric socket set to remove any fasteners holding the underbody panel (splash shield).
• Lower the panel and set it aside.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Locate the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain into the drain pan until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5-10 minutes).
• Clean the drain plug and inspect the sealing surface; replace the sealing washer if your plug uses one.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and 13mm socket to tighten the drain plug.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter cap and old filter

• Find the oil filter housing on top of the engine.
• Use a 24mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the oil filter cap (the cap is part of the housing).
• Lift the cap straight up—oil will drip, so keep shop rags nearby.
• Pull the old cartridge filter off the cap (it snaps on).
• Remove the old O-ring from the cap and install the new O-ring (usually included). Lightly oil the O-ring.
• O-ring: a rubber sealing ring that prevents leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter and torque the housing cap

• Snap the new cartridge filter onto the cap until fully seated.
• Thread the cap into the housing by hand until it seats.
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and 24mm socket to tighten the cap.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the panel.
• Use the flat trim tool and your metric socket set to reinstall the fasteners snugly.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Place a funnel in the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 5.0 quarts of SAE 0W-20 full synthetic first.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.
• Wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick and add oil in small amounts until it reaches the safe range.
• Don’t overfill—add slowly near the top.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and final level check

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and check underneath for leaks at the drain plug.
• Open the hood and check around the oil filter housing cap for leaks.
• Wait 2-3 minutes, then re-check the dipstick and top off as needed (most end up around ~5.5 quarts total with filter, but always go by the dipstick).

Step 10: Reset the oil life (instrument cluster)

• Method A (pedal reset): Turn ignition to ON (engine off). Fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 10 seconds. Turn ignition OFF, then start and verify.
• Method B (steering wheel buttons): Use the steering wheel controls to go to the vehicle info screen for Oil Life, then press and hold OK to reset.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling drop-off (many parts stores accept it).
• Wipe any spilled oil off the engine and underbody with shop rags.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $85-$145 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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