🔧 Impala - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with the correct dexos-approved oil. This keeps your A4’s (sorry—your Impala’s) engine protected and resets the oil life system so the reminder stays accurate.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 20–30 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belt area to prevent smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin/eyes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks (pair)
• Metric socket set (8–24mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10–60 Nm range)
• Oil drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity)
• Oil filter wrench (adjustable band type)
• 24mm socket
• Funnel
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Raise the front with a floor jack and place jack stands at the proper front lift points.
• Quick check: your Impala may have either a spin-on (metal can) oil filter or a cartridge filter in a housing. If you’re not sure, look for a metal canister under the engine vs. a plastic cap that takes a 24mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove any clips/screws holding the front lower shield.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 2: Drain the engine oil

• Place the oil drain pan under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a metric socket set (8–24mm) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5–10 minutes).
• Clean the drain plug and sealing surface with shop rags.

Step 3: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• If your plug uses a replaceable seal/washer, install the new drain plug gasket/washer.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Replace the oil filter (choose the matching option)

• Option A (Spin-on metal can filter):

• Position the oil drain pan under the filter area.
• Use an oil filter wrench (adjustable band type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Wipe the mounting surface with shop rags.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (don’t “double-gasket”).
• Lightly oil the new filter gasket with fresh oil (use a finger and a little oil from your new bottle).
• Install the new filter hand-tight only (typically 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts).

• Option B (Cartridge filter in housing):

• Position the oil drain pan
• Use a 24mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the housing cap (go slow—oil will drain out).
• Remove the old cartridge, then install the new cartridge into the cap/housing as designed.
• Replace the cap O-ring if your new filter includes one (lightly oil the new O-ring with fresh oil).
• Reinstall the cap and tighten using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reinstall the shield using the trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver as needed.
• Confirm nothing is hanging down or touching the exhaust.

Step 6: Refill with new oil

• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add 5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved.
• Start by adding about 5.5 quarts, then adjust after checking the dipstick. It’s easier to add than remove.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 7: Start, check for leaks, and verify the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter area.
• Check the dipstick and top off as needed using the funnel.

Step 8: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn ignition on (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel controls to open the Driver Information Center oil life screen.
• Press and hold SET/CLR until it resets to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick the next morning (cold engine) and adjust if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
• If you see an oil pressure warning or heavy leaking, shut the engine off immediately and recheck your filter/plug.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $110-$190 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$105 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.