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2011 Nissan Altima
2011 Nissan Altima
Hybrid - Inline 4 2.5L
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2011 Nissan Altima Oil and Filter Change

2011 Nissan Altima Oil and Filter Change

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2011 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, 5W-30 oil capacity, drain plug torque specs, and safety tips

How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2011 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, 5W-30 oil capacity, drain plug torque specs, and safety tips

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Altima - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects the engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before getting underneath.
  • ⚠️ Keep the hybrid system OFF: make sure the car is not in “READY” mode and the key/fob is away from the car.
  • ⚠️ Hot oil can burn you—let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if it was driven.
  • ⚠️ Do not crawl under a car supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for an oil change.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (at least 7-quart)
  • Socket wrench ratchet (3/8")
  • 14mm socket
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
  • Oil filter wrench (cup or strap type)
  • Funnel
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • 10mm socket
  • Shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Shut the car fully OFF (not in “READY” mode) and keep the key/fob 10+ feet away.
  • Put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • If you have a plastic lower splash shield, you may need to remove or open an access panel using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front

  • Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the proper support points and gently lower the car onto them.
  • Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove/open the lower cover (if equipped)

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any bolts holding the cover.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips (this tool lifts the center pin so the clip releases).
  • Move the cover aside to access the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

Step 3: Drain the old oil

  • Place the drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
  • Use a 14mm socket with a socket wrench ratchet (3/8") to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
  • Finish unthreading the plug by hand and pull it away quickly so oil flows into the pan.
  • Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new drain plug crush washer.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to a drip (usually 5-10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Wipe the drain hole area with shop rags.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with a 14mm socket: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
  • Hand-starting prevents expensive thread damage.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

  • Move the drain pan (at least 7-quart) under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
  • Use an oil filter wrench (cup or strap type) to loosen the filter counterclockwise (this tool grips the filter can so it can turn).
  • Spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright as you remove it.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (it should not stick to the engine).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

  • Wipe the filter mounting surface with shop rags.
  • Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket.
  • Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 2/3 turn by hand.
  • If you’re using a torque method: use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and your oil filter wrench: Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the lower cover (if removed)

  • Reposition the cover and install bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool as needed.

Step 8: Refill with new engine oil

  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
  • Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
  • Insert a funnel and add 4.5 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic to start.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

  • Start the car and let it run for 30-60 seconds, then shut it off.
  • Look underneath for leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
  • Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert, and re-check.
  • Top off as needed to reach the upper mark (most oil changes end up around ~4.9 quarts total with filter).
  • Don’t overfill—add in small amounts.

âś… After Repair

  • Verify there are no drips after a short test drive, then recheck the dipstick level.
  • Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling drop-off (many parts stores accept them).
  • If your Altima shows an oil maintenance reminder, reset it in the dash display maintenance menu (wording varies by cluster).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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