🔧 Explorer - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. This keeps your Explorer’s 3.5L properly lubricated and helps prevent engine wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands (never rely on a jack).
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 10–20 minutes; oil can be hot enough to burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust components; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is a skin irritant.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap or strap type)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Trim clip tool (specialty)
• 8mm socket

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. This helps oil drain faster without getting dangerously hot.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (this helps the crankcase vent while draining).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front safely

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently rock it to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower access cover (if equipped)

• If your Explorer has a lower splash shield/access panel, remove the fasteners using an 8mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• For plastic clips, use a trim clip tool (specialty) (it’s a small forked tool that lifts push-pins without breaking them).
• Set the panel and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Tip: push plug inward while unthreading.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Wipe the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface using shop rags.
• If your plug uses a gasket/washer, replace it with the new one.
• Thread the plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 Nm range) with a 15mm socket: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (oil will spill when the filter comes off).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cap or strap type) to loosen the filter (this tool grips the filter so you can turn it).
• Spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright as you remove it to reduce mess.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the engine’s sealing surface (double-gasket leaks are common).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil using a gloved finger.
• Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine.
• Tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten unless the filter instructions specifically say so.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield/access cover (if removed)

• Reinstall the panel using the 8mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall any push-clips using your fingers (and the trim clip tool (specialty) if needed).

Step 8: Refill with oil and verify the level

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in SAE 5W-20 engine oil: start with 5.5 quarts.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–45 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 2 minutes, then check the dipstick and add oil as needed to reach the full mark (do not overfill).
• Wipe any spills using shop rags.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Recheck the dipstick after a short 5-minute drive and top off if needed.
• Reset the oil life monitor (your cluster may have one of these methods):
• Method A (steering wheel menu): Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate to Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset, then press-and-hold OK.
• Method B (INFO/RESET style): Press the INFO/SETUP button until oil life shows, then press-and-hold RESET until it resets.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly (most parts stores accept used oil).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$95 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.