🔧 F-150 - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct 5W-30 oil. Fresh oil protects the turbocharged engine, helps cooling, and prevents premature wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Hot oil can burn you—let the engine cool 10-20 minutes after warming it.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to prevent smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and the filter at an oil-recycling drop-off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• 13mm socket
• 8mm socket
• Trim clip remover tool
• Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (adjustable band type)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 meeting Ford spec WSS-M2C946-A/WSS-M2C946-B1) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket or oil drain plug (if gasket is damaged) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Drive the truck for 5 minutes, then shut it off and let it cool 10-20 minutes.
• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧰 Gather tools and parts. A drain pan is a wide container that catches used oil.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and safely support the front (if needed)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the frame down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the truck a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before you crawl under.

Step 2: Remove the splash shield/undertray (if equipped)

• Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (6") to remove the small bolts/screws holding the front shield.
• Use a trim clip remover tool to pop any plastic push-clips out without breaking them.
• Set fasteners in a cup so none get lost.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing surface with shop rags.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• Inspect the plug’s sealing gasket. Replace the oil drain plug gasket or oil drain plug if it’s cracked, flattened, or missing.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-100 Nm range) and 13mm socket to tighten: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs). A torque wrench is a tool that clicks when you reach the correct tightness.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (the filter will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (adjustable band type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a bad leak).
• Wipe the sealing surface clean with shop rags.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a thin film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger and nitrile gloves.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.
• Hand-tight is correct—don’t wrench-tighten it.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield/undertray (if removed)

• Reposition the shield and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (6") to snug the bolts/screws.
• Use a trim clip remover tool to reinstall any push-clips (press them in until fully seated).

Step 8: Refill with new engine oil

• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Place a funnel in the fill hole and add 6 quarts of SAE 5W-30 (Ford spec WSS-M2C946-A/B1).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap firmly.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, then check the level and top off if needed.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, then recheck the level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter using safety glasses.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes, then recheck the dipstick and adjust level if needed.

Step 10: Reset the oil life monitor

• Key on (engine off), then use the steering wheel buttons to open: Menu > Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Press and hold OK to reset to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test drive 5-10 minutes, then check again for any seepage under the truck.
• 🧪 Recheck the dipstick one more time on level ground and top off if needed.
• 🧪 Pour used oil into a sealed container and recycle it with the old filter.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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