🔧 4Runner - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter element and seals, then refill with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects your 4Runner’s engine from wear and keeps it running smoothly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the 4Runner with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot; let it cool if needed to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts/exhaust and clean spills immediately to prevent smoke or fire risk.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a jack alone; always use jack stands.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• Small flat screwdriver

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter element - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off (warm oil drains faster).
• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧰 Raise the front and set it securely on jack stands at the frame points.
• 🧰 Remove the oil fill cap on top of the engine (helps the crankcase vent while draining).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front skid plate (if it blocks access)

• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the skid plate bolts and lower the plate.
• Set bolts aside in a small tray.

Step 2: Drain the engine oil

• Put your drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip.

Step 3: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer

• Wipe the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface with shop towels.
• Replace the drain plug crush washer (this is a soft sealing ring that prevents leaks).
• Thread the plug in by hand first, then use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the oil filter housing (cartridge-style)

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter housing (it will spill).
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the oil filter housing cap.
• Remove the cap and pull out the old filter element.

Step 5: Replace the O-rings and install the new filter element

• Use a small flat screwdriver to carefully remove the old O-ring(s) from the housing cap. Don’t scratch the plastic/metal grooves.
• Install the new O-ring(s) from the O-ring set.
• Put a light coat of fresh oil on the new O-ring(s) using your gloved finger (helps it seal and prevents pinching).
• Insert the new oil filter element into the housing.

Step 6: Reinstall and torque the oil filter housing

• Thread the housing cap in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) and a 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the skid plate

• Lift the skid plate into place and start bolts by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to snug all bolts evenly.

Step 8: Refill the engine with oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
• Pour in about 6.6 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic (you bought 7 quarts so you have extra for topping off).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert, then check the level.
• Top off as needed using the funnel (keep it near the “FULL” mark, not above it).
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Dispose of used oil and the old filter element at a recycling center/auto parts store that accepts used oil.
• 🧪 Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
• 🧪 Reset the maintenance reminder (choose your ignition type below):

• Key ignition: With odometer on Trip A, key OFF. Press and hold the trip/odo button, turn key to ON (do not start), keep holding until it resets.
• Push-button start: Press START twice without brake to ON. Set to Trip A. Power OFF. Hold trip/odo button, press START twice to ON, keep holding until it resets.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.