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2014 Toyota Prius
2010 - 2018 Toyota Prius
Inline 4 1.8L
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Toyota Prius
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  • 2010 to 2018
  • /
  • How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2010-2018 Toyota Prius 1.8L (Cartridge Filter) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
2014 Toyota Prius - oil change (DIY34)

2014 Toyota Prius - oil change (DIY34)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2010-2018 Toyota Prius 1.8L (Cartridge Filter) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, oil capacity, and torque specs

How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2010-2018 Toyota Prius 1.8L (Cartridge Filter) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, oil capacity, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Prius - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

On your Prius, an oil change replaces the old engine oil and the oil filter element so the engine stays protected and clean. The filter is a cartridge style in a reusable housing, so you replace the inner filter and O-rings rather than the whole housing.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

Assumption: stock 1.8L oil filter housing (cartridge type).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot. Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes if it was just driven.
  • ⚠️ Keep the car OFF (not READY) while you’re underneath to prevent the engine from starting automatically.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves to avoid oil splashes.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • 14mm socket
  • Torque wrench (3/8")
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Oil drain pan (at least 7-quart)
  • Funnel
  • Shop rags
  • 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
  • Oil filter housing drain tool (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter element (cartridge style) - Qty: 1
  • Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Make sure the car is OFF (not READY) before lifting and before going underneath.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Gather your oil and filter parts first—once you start draining, you’ll want everything ready.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the car

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front center jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before crawling under.

Step 2: Remove the engine undercover access panel

  • Slide your oil drain pan under the engine area.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolts that hold the service flap/undercover section.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out any plastic clips (a clip tool prevents breaking them).
  • Fold down or remove the access panel so you can reach the drain plug and filter housing.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

  • Position the oil drain pan directly under the oil pan drain plug.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then remove it by hand.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
  • Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug, and install the new engine oil drain plug crush washer.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench (3/8") with a 14mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: If it won’t thread easily, stop and realign.

Step 5: Drain the oil filter housing (cartridge filter)

  • Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter housing area.
  • Use the oil filter housing drain tool (specialty) to drain the filter housing. (This tool threads into the small drain port to let the housing empty first and reduce mess.)
  • Let it drain until it slows down.

Step 6: Remove the oil filter housing and replace the filter

  • Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a ratchet (3/8") to loosen and remove the housing/cap.
  • Pull the old oil filter element out of the housing.
  • Remove and replace the housing O-ring(s) using the new oil filter housing O-ring set.
  • Wipe the housing and sealing surfaces with shop rags.
  • Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh 0W-20 engine oil (this helps it seal and prevents tearing).
  • Install the new oil filter element into the housing.

Step 7: Reinstall the oil filter housing

  • Thread the filter housing on by hand until the O-ring seats.
  • Use a torque wrench (3/8") and 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) to tighten: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • If your housing has a small drain plug/port you removed, reinstall it and tighten: Torque to 13 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the undercover access panel

  • Reposition the panel.
  • Use the 10mm socket and ratchet for bolts.
  • Press clips back in by hand (use the trim clip removal tool to align if needed).

Step 9: Add new engine oil

  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
  • Place a funnel in the fill hole.
  • Pour in about 4.4 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic.
  • Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 10: Start, check for leaks, and verify oil level

  • Start the car and let it run briefly (you just want oil pressure built up).
  • Turn the car OFF and wait 2–3 minutes for oil to settle.
  • Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
  • Check the dipstick, then add oil as needed using the funnel (add small amounts at a time).

✅ After Repair

  • Recheck the dipstick the next day (after sitting a few minutes) and top off if needed.
  • Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly (most auto parts stores accept used oil).
  • Reset the maintenance reminder (common Prius method):
  • • With foot off brake, press POWER to IG-ON (dash on, not READY).
  • • Use the display controls to show ODO (not Trip A/B).
  • • Power OFF.
  • • Press and hold the ODO/TRIP button, then press POWER to IG-ON while holding.
  • • Keep holding until the display resets (dashes/zeros), then release.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Guide for Engine Oil replace for these Toyota vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2018 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2017 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2016 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2015 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2014 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2013 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2012 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2011 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
2010 Toyota Prius-Inline 4 1.8L-
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