🔧 Challenger - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct spec oil. This keeps your 6.4L HEMI properly lubricated and helps prevent engine wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Hot oil can burn—let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if it’s fully warm.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and leave the car in gear; set the parking brake.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts/exhaust; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap-style or band-style)
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 0W-40 full synthetic, MS-12633 spec) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket (if equipped/required) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Challenger on level ground and let the engine cool to “warm, not hot.”
• Set the parking brake, leave the transmission in gear, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Gather a drain pan that holds at least 10 quarts so it won’t overflow.
• Lay cardboard down to catch drips.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
• Keep wheel chocks in place at the rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Look under the front of the engine for a plastic splash shield/undertray.
• Remove fasteners using a trim clip remover and a flathead screwdriver as needed.
• If there are small bolts, remove them using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Place the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Remove the drain plug using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug area with shop towels.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• If your drain plug uses a sealing washer/gasket, replace it now.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range) to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Stop if it doesn’t thread smoothly.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (oil will spill when the filter comes off).
• Remove the oil filter using an oil filter wrench (cap-style or band-style) (this grips the filter so you can turn it).
• Once it’s loose, spin it off by hand while keeping the open end facing up as long as possible.
• Check the engine’s filter mounting surface and make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Wipe the mounting surface with shop towels.
• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger (nitrile gloves).
• Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
• Use the oil filter wrench (cap-style or band-style) only if needed at the end—do not over-tighten.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the shield and install clips with the trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver as needed.
• If bolts were removed, install them using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Lower the car and refill with new oil

• Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the car.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Insert a funnel and add 7 quarts of SAE 0W-40 full synthetic, MS-12633 spec.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and verify oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3-5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter area using safety glasses.
• Check the dipstick, then top off as needed using the funnel (add small amounts).

Step 10: Reset the oil life indicator

• Turn ignition to RUN (do not start).
• Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the cluster to Vehicle Info > Oil Life.
• Press and hold OK to reset to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Take a short 5-10 minute drive, then re-check for leaks and re-check the dipstick level.
• ✅ Pour used oil into sealed containers and take it (and the used filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.
• ✅ If you see an oil pressure warning or loud ticking after service, shut off immediately and re-check the oil level and filter installation.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$110 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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