🔧 Forester - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

Changing the engine oil and oil filter on your Forester keeps the turbo engine lubricated and helps prevent wear and sludge buildup. You’ll drain the old oil, replace the filter and crush washer, then refill and verify the oil level.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and set the parking brake.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15-30 minutes; hot oil can burn.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands or use ramps; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust; it can smoke and smell.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 17mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap-style or band-style)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.
• If your Forester has a lower splash shield, plan to remove it to access the drain plug and filter.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the vehicle

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front using a floor jack, then set it down onto jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Remove plastic push-clips using a trim clip removal tool.
• Remove any small bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in the order you removed them.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug.
• Loosen and remove the drain plug using a 17mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug clean using shop rags.

Step 4: Replace the crush washer and reinstall the drain plug

• Remove the old washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug crush washer.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a 17mm socket, then finish with a 3/8" torque wrench. A torque wrench is a tool that clicks when you reach the correct tightness.
• Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan
• Loosen the filter using an oil filter wrench, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (it should be stuck to the filter, not the engine).
• Double-gasket causes major leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil using a finger.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine surface.
• Tighten by hand an additional 2/3 turn after gasket contact.
• Wipe any oil off surrounding areas with shop rags.

Step 7: Reinstall the lower splash shield (if removed)

• Reinstall the shield using the 12mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and the push-clips with the trim clip removal tool.
• Confirm the shield is not rubbing on anything and all clips are seated.

Step 8: Refill engine oil

• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole and add SAE 5W-30 full synthetic.
• Add most of the oil first, then use the dipstick to sneak up on the full mark.
• Don’t overfill; add slowly near the end.

Step 9: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and assure the oil pressure warning light goes out normally.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 10: Final oil level check

• Wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, then pull again to read.
• Top off as needed to reach the full mark (don’t exceed it).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck under the vehicle after a short drive for any seepage around the filter and drain plug.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling location or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
• Write down the mileage/date and plan the next change based on your Forester’s maintenance schedule and driving conditions.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$85 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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