🔧 Explorer - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old oil from your Explorer, replace the oil filter, install a new drain plug washer (if equipped), and refill with fresh oil of the correct spec. This keeps the engine protected and helps it last longer.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Work on a level, solid surface so the vehicle is stable.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool until warm, not burning hot.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your skin and eyes from used oil.
• ⚠️ Keep rags handy; oil on the floor is very slippery—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Used oil and the old filter must be recycled; never dump oil on the ground or in drains.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine without oil in it at any point.
• Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (2-ton or higher, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (ft-lb scale)
• 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (band or cup type, 65–76mm adjustable)
• 🛠️ Large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🛠️ Funnel with medium spout
• 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
• 🛠️ Latex or nitrile gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Flat trim tool or flathead screwdriver
• 🛠️ Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Engine oil (full synthetic 5W-20 meeting Ford spec) - Qty: ~6 quarts (confirm in owner’s manual)
• 🔩 Engine oil filter (3.3L V6, spin-on type) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Drain plug gasket/washer (if separate from plug) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 New engine oil drain plug (optional, if old is damaged) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can
• 🔩 Disposable oil drain pan or jug for recycling - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Explorer on level ground, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in P.
• Place wheel chocks behind at least one rear wheel.
• Let the engine run for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off so the oil is warm and flows out easier.
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (this helps oil drain faster).
• Locate the oil dipstick so you know where to check the level later.
• Find your local used oil recycling center so you can dispose of oil properly afterward.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Explorer at the front jacking point (behind the front crossmember area; refer to owner’s manual diagram).
• Place jack stands under the specified front support points on each side and lower the vehicle onto the stands with the floor jack.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to be sure it is stable on the stands.
• Never crawl under a car supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove any lower splash shield access cover (if equipped)

• Use a flashlight to locate the plastic panel or door under the engine that gives access to the drain plug and filter.
• If there are plastic clips, carefully pry them out with a flat trim tool or flathead screwdriver.
• Set any screws or clips aside where you will not lose them.

Step 3: Position the drain pan and remove the drain plug

• Place the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug (rear of the oil pan).
• Use a 15mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to slowly loosen the drain plug, keeping pressure inward so oil doesn’t gush out too soon.
• Once the plug is almost out, move your hand slightly aside and remove it quickly so the oil flows straight into the pan.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (this can take 5–10 minutes).

Step 4: Inspect and reinstall the drain plug

• Wipe the drain plug and the sealing surface on the oil pan with a rag.
• If your plug uses a separate washer, replace it with the new drain plug gasket.
• Thread the drain plug back in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Snug, not “gorilla tight,” prevents stripping.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter (front passenger side area of the engine; follow the cylindrical filter body).
• Use the oil filter wrench to loosen the filter by turning it counterclockwise.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand; be ready, more oil will come out.
• Lower the filter into the pan and let remaining oil drain.

Step 6: Prepare and install the new oil filter

• Compare the new filter to the old one to ensure they match in size and gasket diameter.
• Use a clean finger to dab a bit of fresh engine oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (this helps it seal and makes removal easier next time).
• Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a rag, and make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket contacts the base.
• Then tighten it an additional 3/4 turn by hand, or as marked on the filter body. If needed, lightly snug with the oil filter wrench, but do not overtighten. No torque spec is used here—hand-tight plus a bit.

Step 7: Clean up underneath and reinstall splash shield

• Spray a little brake cleaner on a rag and clean around the drain plug and filter so you can later spot any new leaks easily.
• Reinstall any lower access cover or splash shield using the original clips and screws, with the flat trim tool or screwdriver as needed.
• Make sure nothing is hanging loose under the vehicle.

Step 8: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands, then slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks, but keep the parking brake set for now.

Step 9: Add new engine oil

• Place the funnel into the oil filler opening on top of the engine.
• Pour in about 5 quarts of the correct-spec engine oil first.
• Wait a minute for the oil to drain down, then insert the dipstick, pull it out, and check the level.
• Add oil slowly in small amounts until the level is between the MIN and MAX marks, aiming close to MAX but not over it. Total will be around 6 quarts; confirm with the owner’s manual.

Step 10: Start the engine and check for leaks

• With the hood open, start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look under the vehicle with a flashlight and check around the drain plug and oil filter for any signs of fresh oil leaks.
• If you see a leak, shut the engine off, let things cool, then snug the leaking part slightly (using the 15mm socket or oil filter wrench as appropriate).
• Shut off the engine and wait 2–3 minutes for oil to settle back into the pan.

Step 11: Final oil level check

• Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert fully, then pull again.
• Verify the oil level is between MIN and MAX, ideally near MAX but not above.
• If needed, add a small amount of oil using the funnel, then recheck.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap securely.

Step 12: Reset the oil life monitor (instrument cluster menu)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine running or just on; check what your cluster allows).
• Use the steering wheel buttons to open the menu on the instrument cluster.
• Navigate to: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Select Oil Life Reset and confirm 100% reset.
• If menus differ slightly, follow similar “Settings/Vehicle/Oil Life” path.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Drive the Explorer for 5–10 minutes, then park on level ground and recheck the oil level one more time with the dipstick, topping off if needed.
• 🧪 Inspect under the vehicle again for any fresh drips from the drain plug or filter area.
• 🧪 Make sure the oil pressure warning light on the dash stays off while driving.
• 🧪 Pour the used oil from the drain pan into a sealed container and take the oil and old filter to a recycling center or garage that accepts used oil.
• 🧪 Note the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $50–$140 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–0.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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