🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil to the correct level. This keeps your engine protected and helps it last longer.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support the front of your Rogue with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool 20–30 minutes so the oil is warm, not hot, to avoid burns.
• 🧯 Keep the area well ventilated and away from open flames; engine oil is flammable.
• 🧤 Wipe any spilled oil immediately, especially from the exhaust and serpentine belt area.
• ♻️ Plan where you will take the used oil and filter for recycling; never dump oil on the ground or in drains.
• 🔌 Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), Qty: 2
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 Ratchet handle (3/8" drive)
• 🧰 6" socket extension (3/8" drive)
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 Oil filter wrench (strap or cap style, for spin-on filter)
• 🧰 Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (medium size)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Plastic trim clip remover (specialty)
• 🧰 Clean shop rags or paper towels
• 🧰 Mechanic gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🛢️ 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (API SP or SN Plus) - Qty: 5 quarts (you will use about 4.5)
• 🛢️ Engine oil filter (spin-on, for 2.5L) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Aluminum drain plug crush washer (14mm) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Brake cleaner spray or engine-safe degreaser - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Disposable gloves - Qty: 1 box
• 🛢️ Shop towels - Qty: 1 roll

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Run the engine for 3–5 minutes, then shut it off to warm the oil slightly so it flows out easier.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl under the vehicle multiple times.
• Confirm your oil spec: for this engine Nissan specifies 0W-20 full synthetic.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front

• Position the floor jack (3-ton) under the front center jacking point (just behind the front bumper on the subframe crossmember).
• Raise the front until you have enough room to work underneath comfortably.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds (the reinforced seams under the doors).
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and slightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
• Always keep at least two support points under the car.

Step 2: Remove the Front Under-cover Panel

• Slide under the front of your Rogue with a 10mm socket, ratchet, and plastic trim clip remover.
• Remove the small 10mm bolts holding the plastic engine under-cover near the front and middle.
• Use the plastic trim clip remover or flathead screwdriver to gently pry out the plastic push clips.
• Lower the under-cover and set it aside where it will not get stepped on.

Step 3: Locate the Drain Plug and Oil Filter

• Place the drain pan under the oil pan (metal pan at the bottom of the engine).
• Find the drain plug at the bottom rear area of the oil pan; it has a hex head that fits a 14mm socket.
• Look for the oil filter nearby toward the front of the engine; it is a spin-on cylindrical filter pointing downward.

Step 4: Drain the Old Oil

• Put on mechanic gloves and safety glasses.
• Using a 14mm socket and ratchet, slightly loosen the drain plug while holding it in with your fingers to control the flow.
• Position the drain pan so oil will flow into it, then remove the plug completely by hand and move your hand away quickly.
• Let the oil drain until it becomes a slow drip, at least 5–10 minutes.
• Moving the pan as oil stream shifts helps avoid spills.

Step 5: Replace the Drain Plug Washer and Reinstall Plug

• Clean the drain plug with a shop rag.
• Remove the old aluminum crush washer from the plug and install the new crush washer.
• Thread the drain plug back into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Wipe any oil around the drain area with a rag.

Step 6: Remove the Old Oil Filter

• Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter because oil will spill when you remove it.
• Use the oil filter wrench to loosen the old filter by turning it counter-clockwise.
• Once it is loose, spin it off by hand and keep it upright as you lower it into the pan to reduce spills.
• Check the filter mounting surface on the engine and make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there.

Step 7: Install the New Oil Filter

• Take the new oil filter out of the box.
• Dip a finger in fresh oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket makes contact with the mounting surface.
• Once it touches, tighten it by hand an additional 2/3 to 3/4 turn; do not over-tighten.
• Hand-tight plus a bit is usually enough.

Step 8: Reinstall the Under-cover Panel

• Lift the under-cover panel back into place under the engine.
• Install the plastic push clips by hand first to hold it up.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the bolts snugly. No torque spec needed; just snug, not overtight.

Step 9: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Lower the vehicle fully to the ground and remove the jack.

Step 10: Add New Engine Oil

• Open the hood using the release lever inside, then lift the hood and secure the prop rod.
• Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually marked “Engine Oil” or with an oil can symbol) and remove it by hand.
• Place the funnel in the filler hole.
• Pour in 4.0 quarts of 0W-20 synthetic oil to start.
• Reinstall the oil cap loosely, then wait 1–2 minutes for the oil to drain to the pan.

Step 11: Start Engine and Check for Leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look under the vehicle with a flashlight for leaks at the drain plug and around the oil filter.
• If you see any drips, shut the engine off and carefully tighten the leaking part slightly (use the 14mm socket or oil filter wrench if needed).
• Turn off the engine and wait 5 minutes so the oil can settle.

Step 12: Check and Adjust Oil Level

• With the engine off and vehicle on level ground, pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull it out again.
• The oil should be between the “L” (low) and “H” (high) marks, ideally near the upper mark.
• If it is below the upper mark, add small amounts (about 0.2 quart at a time) through the funnel, re-checking with the dipstick.
• Final capacity with a filter change is about 4.4–4.6 quarts (4.2–4.4 L), but always trust the dipstick.
• Once correct, reinstall the oil cap securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine idle for a few minutes and watch for any warning lights on the dash. The oil pressure light should turn off within a second or two after starting.
• Take a short drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and re-check for leaks underneath.
• After the drive and a 5-minute wait, re-check the dipstick and adjust the oil level if needed.
• Record the date and mileage so you know when the next change is due (typically every 5,000–7,500 miles depending on driving conditions).
• Return used oil and the old filter to an authorized recycling center or auto parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90–$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55–$70 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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