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2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Hybrid - V8 6.0L
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Oil Change & Filter Replacement Chevrolet Silverado 2007-2013

Oil Change & Filter Replacement Chevrolet Silverado 2007-2013

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
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How to Change Engine Oil & Filter on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Change Engine Oil & Filter on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Silverado 1500 - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old oil from the engine, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil. This keeps your engine protected and helps your hybrid run smoothly and efficiently.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot oil can cause serious burns.
  • ⚠️ Always support the truck with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; oil can splash when the drain plug and filter are removed.
  • ⚠️ This is a hybrid: do not touch any orange-colored cables or components; these are high-voltage parts.
  • ⚠️ Keep the truck in PARK with the parking brake firmly set before going under it.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for a routine engine oil and filter change.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2-4)
  • 🛠️ Wheel chocks
  • 🛠️ 13mm socket
  • 🛠️ 15mm socket
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (ft-lbs scale)
  • 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (strap or cup type)
  • 🛠️ Oil drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity)
  • 🛠️ Funnel (medium size)
  • 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
  • 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
  • 🛠️ Safety glasses
  • 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔩 Engine oil (0W-20, full synthetic, dexos-approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
  • 🔩 Engine oil filter (for 6.0L hybrid) - Qty: 1
  • 🔩 Oil drain plug gasket/washer - Qty: 1 (if your plug uses a separate washer)
  • 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
  • 🔩 Disposable gloves - Qty: 1 box
  • 🔩 Absorbent pads or cardboard - Qty: 1-2 (to catch drips under the truck)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Silverado on level ground, shift to PARK, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the truck cannot roll.
  • Let the engine cool if it has been running; slightly warm oil drains better but should not be hot to the touch.
  • Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl out from under the truck mid-job.
  • Locate the oil filler cap (on top of the engine) and the dipstick so you know where you’ll refill and check the level.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the truck

  • Use the floor jack (3-ton) to lift the front of the truck at the front frame or crossmember, following safe lifting points in the owner’s manual.
  • Place jack stands (3-ton) under the frame rails on each side and slowly lower the truck onto the stands with the floor jack.
  • Give the truck a gentle push to confirm it is stable on the stands before going underneath.
  • Keep floor jack near as a backup support.

Step 2: Remove any lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Slide under the front and look for a plastic or metal shield below the engine.
  • Use a flathead screwdriver or appropriate tool to remove plastic clips or small bolts holding the shield (some trucks may not have this shield).
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in order so reassembly is easy.

Step 3: Loosen the oil filler cap

  • Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine.
  • Twist the cap counterclockwise by hand to loosen or remove it; this helps the oil drain faster.

Step 4: Position the drain pan

  • Slide under the truck and locate the engine oil pan (metal pan at the bottom of the engine, behind the front axle) and the drain plug at its lowest point.
  • Place the oil drain pan (10-quart) under the drain plug, slightly toward the direction you expect the oil stream to go.
  • Oil first comes out with force; aim ahead.

Step 5: Remove the drain plug and drain the oil

  • Use a 13mm socket with the 3/8" ratchet to try loosening the drain plug; if it doesn’t fit, use the 15mm socket instead.
  • Turn the plug counterclockwise to break it loose, then finish unscrewing it by hand while pressing inward to avoid drops, and pull it away quickly so oil flows into the pan.
  • Let the oil drain completely; this may take 5–10 minutes, until it is only slowly dripping.
  • While it drains, clean the drain plug with a shop rag and install a new drain plug gasket if your plug uses one.

Step 6: Reinstall and tighten the drain plug

  • Wipe the area around the drain hole on the oil pan with a shop rag so the sealing surface is clean.
  • Thread the drain plug back in by hand first to avoid cross-threading; it should spin easily.
  • Use the same 13mm or 15mm socket and the 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • If you lack torque wrench, snug then a small extra turn.

Step 7: Remove the old oil filter

  • Locate the oil filter under the engine (on these trucks it is a spin-on canister, usually vertical or angled).
  • Position the drain pan under the oil filter; some oil will spill when it comes off.
  • Use the oil filter wrench to turn the filter counterclockwise until loose, then spin it off by hand.
  • Carefully tip the filter open side up to avoid spilling oil, and place it in the drain pan.

Step 8: Prepare and install the new oil filter

  • Take the new oil filter and apply a thin film of fresh engine oil to the rubber gasket on top using a fingertip; this helps it seal and makes removal easier later.
  • Wipe the oil filter mounting surface on the engine with a shop rag; make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there.
  • Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand, turning clockwise until the gasket first touches the mounting surface.
  • Once the gasket touches, tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn. Do not use a wrench for final tightening unless the instructions on the filter say otherwise.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

  • Lift the splash shield back into position under the engine.
  • Reinstall any clips or bolts using the flathead screwdriver or appropriate socket you used earlier.

Step 10: Lower the truck

  • Use the floor jack to raise the truck slightly to take weight off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands, then slowly lower the truck to the ground with the floor jack.
  • Remove the wheel chocks only after the truck is fully lowered and you’re done under it.

Step 11: Add new engine oil

  • Place the funnel into the oil filler opening on top of the engine.
  • Pour in about 5 quarts of the new 0W-20 engine oil first.
  • Wait a moment for the oil to settle, then add another 0.5–1 quart, for a total of about 6 quarts.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand and tighten it snugly.

Step 12: Start the engine and check for leaks

  • Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
  • Look underneath the truck (from the side, not crawling under) at the drain plug and oil filter area for any drips.
  • If you see leaks, switch off the engine and carefully tighten the leaking part slightly with the correct tool (socket or hand-tightening the filter).

Step 13: Check the oil level with the dipstick

  • Turn the engine off and wait 2–3 minutes so the oil can drain back into the pan.
  • Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a shop rag, reinsert fully, then pull it out again.
  • The oil level should be between the LOW and FULL marks, ideally right at or just below FULL.
  • If it is low, use the funnel to add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time), rechecking until it is at the proper level.

Step 14: Clean up and dispose of used oil properly

  • Pour the used oil from the drain pan into a sealed container (such as the empty oil bottles) using the funnel.
  • Place the used oil filter in a plastic bag to prevent leaks.
  • Take the used oil and filter to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
  • Never pour used oil on the ground or into drains.

✅ After Repair

  • Check for any fresh oil spots under the truck over the next day or two.
  • Verify the oil level again after your next short drive and top up if needed.
  • Reset your maintenance reminder if your truck displays one (refer to the instrument cluster menu or owner’s manual).
  • Make a note of the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $50-$70 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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