🔧 Camry - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll be draining the old engine oil, replacing the oil filter cartridge, and refilling with fresh oil in your Camry. This keeps the 3.5L V6 lubricated, prevents wear, and maintains performance.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🦺 Always work on a cool engine; hot oil and exhaust parts can burn you.
• 🧱 Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels so the car cannot roll.
• 🪜 If you lift the front of the car, always support it with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🔌 Battery disconnection is not required for this job.
• 🧴 Clean up oil spills immediately; used oil is slippery and hazardous.
• 🌎 Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center or parts store; never pour it on the ground or down drains.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 Ratchet handle (3/8" drive)
• 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 Socket extension (3"–6")
• 🧰 64mm 14-flute oil filter housing socket (specialty)
• 🧰 3/8" drive 10mm hex (Allen) bit socket
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (medium-size)
• 🧰 Shop rags or paper towels
• 🧰 Disposable gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🛢️ Engine oil 0W-20 (full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts (you will use about 6.1 quarts, extra is for top-off)
• 🛢️ Engine oil filter cartridge kit (with new housing O-ring and drain plug O-ring) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Engine oil drain plug gasket (crush washer, if not included) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Shop towels or absorbent pads - Qty: as needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Camry on a flat, solid surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes if it was just running so the oil is warm but not scalding.
• 🪜 Position your floor jack under the front jacking point and raise the front high enough to place jack stands at the recommended side pinch welds, then lower the car onto the stands.
• 📦 Lay cardboard or an old mat under the engine area to catch small drips.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine undercover

• Slide under the front and locate the plastic engine undercover (splash shield) beneath the engine.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the small bolts along the front and middle of the cover.
• If there are any plastic clips, use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry them out.
• Lower the cover and set it aside in a safe spot.

Step 2: Loosen the oil filler cap

• Open the hood using the interior hood release, then lift the hood and secure it with the prop rod.
• Find the oil filler cap on top of the engine cover.
• Turn the oil filler cap counterclockwise by hand to loosen it, but leave it sitting in place. This helps the oil drain faster.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug (rear of the oil pan, metal plug with 14mm head).
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand and let the oil drain completely.
• Allow several minutes for the oil to slow to a drip.
• Clean the drain plug with a rag and install a new drain plug gasket if required.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with the 14mm socket and torque wrench to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• If threads feel rough, stop and re-start by hand.

Step 4: Drain the oil filter housing

• Locate the oil filter housing at the front lower part of the engine. It is a round plastic or aluminum canister pointing downward.
• In the center of the housing, you’ll see a small plug with a 10mm hex (Allen) recess.
• Position the drain pan under the filter housing.
• Use the 3/8" drive 10mm hex bit socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the small center plug; a bit of oil may come out.
• Many filter kits include a small plastic drain tool; if supplied, push it into the opening to drain the oil from the housing into the pan and wait until it stops.
• Remove the plastic drain tool, then reinstall the small center plug and tighten with the 10mm hex bit socket to 13 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter housing and old filter

• Place the drain pan directly under the filter housing in case of remaining oil.
• Fit the 64mm 14-flute oil filter housing socket over the housing, attach the ratchet, and carefully loosen the housing counterclockwise.
• Once loose, spin the housing off by hand and lower it into the drain pan; some oil will spill out.
• Pull the old filter cartridge out of the housing and discard it into the drain pan.
• Use a rag to wipe the inside of the housing and the sealing surface on the engine where the housing mounts.

Step 6: Replace O-rings and install new filter

• From the new filter kit, locate the large O-ring for the housing and the small O-ring for the center plug (if included).
• Use the flathead screwdriver gently to lift off the old large O-ring from the housing groove; be careful not to scratch the plastic.
• Install the new large O-ring into the correct groove on the housing (match its original location).
• If your kit includes a small O-ring for the center plug, remove the old one and install the new one.
• Lightly coat the new O-rings with fresh engine oil using a gloved finger. This helps prevent leaks and tearing.
• Push the new filter cartridge into the housing until it seats fully.

Step 7: Reinstall the oil filter housing

• Thread the housing with the new filter back onto the engine by hand. It should spin on smoothly; if it feels cross-threaded, back off and try again.
• Once hand-tight, place the 64mm 14-flute socket on the housing and attach the torque wrench.
• Tighten the housing to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs). Do not overtighten; the housing can crack.

Step 8: Reinstall the engine undercover

• Lift the engine undercover back into position under the front of the car.
• Install the bolts by hand first, then snug them with the 10mm socket and ratchet. They only need to be snug, not extremely tight.
• Reinstall any plastic clips you removed earlier by pushing them back into their holes.

Step 9: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of the car slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands and slowly lower the car to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 10: Refill the engine with fresh oil

• Remove the loosened oil filler cap on top of the engine completely.
• Place the funnel in the filler opening.
• Pour in about 5.5 quarts of 0W-20 synthetic oil to start.
• Reinstall the filler cap by hand and tighten until snug.

Step 11: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath the car with a flashlight and check around the drain plug and oil filter housing for any signs of leaking oil.
• If you see leaks, shut off the engine and carefully snug the leaking part with the appropriate tool (either 14mm socket for the drain plug or filter housing socket for the filter).
• Shut off the engine and wait a couple of minutes for the oil to settle in the pan.

Step 12: Check the oil level and top off

• Pull out the oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again to check the level.
• If the level is below the “FULL” mark, add oil a little at a time (about 0.2–0.3 quarts), then recheck.
• The total capacity with filter is about 6.1 quarts, but always use the dipstick as your final guide.
• Once the level is at or just below the FULL mark, reinstall the dipstick fully.

Step 13: Reset the maintenance reminder (oil change light)

• Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine (foot off brake, press START button twice).
• Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the instrument cluster menu.
• Go to: Menu > Settings (gear icon) > Vehicle Settings > Scheduled Maintenance.
• Select Reset, then confirm the reset when prompted.
• Turn the ignition OFF.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 After driving for 5–10 minutes, park on level ground, wait a few minutes, then recheck the oil level with the dipstick and top off if needed.
• 👀 Over the next few trips, occasionally look under the car where you park to make sure there are no fresh oil spots.
• 📓 Note the date, mileage, and oil type you used so you know when the next oil change is due.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40–$80 (parts only)

You Save: $80–$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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