🔧 IS - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains the old engine oil and replaces the oil filter element so your turbo engine stays properly lubricated and clean. On your IS, the filter is a cartridge-style element inside a reusable housing, so you replace the inner filter and the O-rings each time.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine if you’re new; hot oil can burn skin fast.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use wheel chocks so the car can’t roll.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch torque wrench
• Flat trim clip tool
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• Small pick tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter element - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm oil drains faster. Let the engine run 2–3 minutes, then shut it off.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the oil drain quicker.
• Assumption: your IS uses the common Toyota/Lexus cartridge-style oil filter housing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and safely support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum pair) at the left and right front support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine under cover

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the small bolts holding the access panel/under cover.
• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out plastic clips (pry the center pin up first, then remove the clip).
• Set the fasteners aside in a small pile so none get lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it’s down to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Remove the old crush washer (a soft metal sealing washer) from the drain plug and install the new one.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench with a 14mm socket and Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop towels.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter element (cartridge housing)

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter housing area.
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the filter housing cap.
• Lower the cap and old filter element carefully; more oil will drain out.
• Keep the cap level to avoid spills.

Step 6: Replace the filter and O-rings

• Pull the old filter element off the housing cap by hand.
• Use a small pick tool to remove the old O-ring(s) from the cap grooves.
• Install the new O-ring(s) from the oil filter housing O-ring set.
• Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh oil using a gloved finger (this helps prevent pinching).
• Push the new oil filter element onto the cap until it seats.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque the filter housing cap

• Thread the housing cap in by hand until the O-ring contacts the housing.
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten it.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the housing area clean with shop towels.

Step 8: Reinstall the under cover

• Reposition the cover and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Reinstall plastic clips by pushing the clip body in, then pressing the center pin flush.

Step 9: Refill with fresh oil

• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Add SAE 0W-20 full synthetic: start with 5.5 quarts, then adjust after checking the dipstick.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 10: Check for leaks and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert fully, then recheck.
• Add oil as needed to bring the level to the full mark (do not overfill).
• Look underneath for any seepage at the drain plug and filter housing.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick again after your first short drive.
• Reset the maintenance reminder if it’s on:
• Turn ignition to ON without starting, use the steering wheel controls to display the ODO screen, then power OFF.
• Press and hold the trip/ODO button, then turn ignition back to ON while holding until the reset completes.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter element at a recycling center or parts store that accepts waste oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.