🔧 Tundra - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the cartridge-style oil filter, then refill with fresh oil. This keeps your A4—sorry—your Tundra properly lubricated and helps prevent engine wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

Assumption: 5.7L uses 0W-20 full synthetic and a cartridge filter housing.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the truck with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot; let the engine cool 10-20 minutes before draining.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to prevent smoke and smells.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• 12mm socket
• Extension (6")
• Oil filter cap wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty)
• Small flat screwdriver
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 8 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge kit (includes filter + O-rings) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and loosen the oil fill cap (helps it drain better).
• Lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the frame.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front skid plate access (if equipped)

• Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
• Use a 12mm socket, extension (6"), and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the skid plate bolts needed for access.
• Set bolts aside so they don’t get lost.

Step 2: Drain the old engine oil

• Locate the oil drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old drain plug gasket/crush washer and install the new one.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Drain the oil filter housing (cartridge filter)

• Find the oil filter housing (a round cap-style housing) near the front lower engine area.
• Some housings have a small drain plug in the center. Place the drain pan underneath.
• Use the appropriate drive on your 3/8" drive ratchet to carefully remove that small plug (if present) and let it drain.
• Reinstall and tighten that small plug with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
• Cartridge housing = reusable cap; only filter/O-rings get replaced.

Step 4: Remove the oil filter housing and replace the filter

• Use the oil filter cap wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the filter housing cap.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand and keep it upright to reduce spills.
• Pull the old cartridge filter out of the housing.
• Use a small flat screwdriver to remove the old O-ring(s) from the housing cap (be gentle—don’t scratch the plastic/metal sealing groove).
• Install the new O-ring(s) from the filter kit in the same groove(s). Lightly coat them with fresh oil using a gloved finger.
• Push the new cartridge filter into the housing until it seats.
• Reinstall the housing cap by hand until snug, then tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Reinstall the skid plate

• Reposition the skid plate and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket, extension (6"), and 3/8" drive ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.

Step 6: Refill the engine with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening on top of the engine.
• Pour in about 7.9 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic (start with ~7.5 quarts, then top off after checking).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 7: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, then re-check.
• Add oil in small amounts using the funnel until the level is at the full mark.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.

Step 8: Reset the maintenance reminder

• Set the display to the odometer (ODO), not Trip A/B, using the dash ODO/TRIP button.
• Turn ignition OFF.
• Press and hold the ODO/TRIP button, then turn ignition to ON (do not start).
• Keep holding until the maintenance reset completes (the display typically counts down to zeros).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after a short 5-10 minute drive.
• Verify the dipstick level again on level ground and top off if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly (many parts stores accept used oil).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$95 (parts only)

You Save: $65-$105 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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