🔧 Sequoia - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This job drains the old engine oil and replaces the oil filter so your Sequoia’s V8 stays lubricated and protected. On your Sequoia, the oil filter is a cartridge inside a reusable housing, so you’ll replace the paper element and O-rings (not a spin-on canister).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a level surface and set the parking brake.
• 🛑 Let the exhaust cool—hot oil and exhaust parts can burn you.
• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep oil off belts and rubber hoses; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• 12mm socket
• Extension bar (3"–6")
• Oil filter housing wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty)
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• Pick tool (specialty)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 8 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge kit (filter element + O-rings) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Warm the engine 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster, but you don’t want it scorching hot.
• 🧰 Park level, set parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Raise the front and set it securely on jack stands under the frame.
• 🧰 Open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front under cover (if equipped)

• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and extension bar (3"–6") to remove the bolts holding the front skid/under cover.
• Set the bolts aside in a tray so they don’t get lost. Take a quick photo for reassembly.

Step 2: Drain the engine oil

• Place your drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive breaker bar to loosen the drain plug, then finish by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it becomes a slow drip.
• Install a new oil drain plug crush washer on the drain plug.
• Reinstall the drain plug using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Remove the oil filter housing drain plug

• Locate the oil filter housing (front/lower area of the engine).
• Move the drain pan under the filter housing area.
• Use the oil filter housing wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) to slightly loosen the housing if it’s very tight (do not remove it yet).
• Remove the small drain plug on the bottom of the housing using a 3/8" drive ratchet (tooling may vary slightly; use the correct socket for your plug if it’s different).
• Let the oil drain from the housing. Use shop rags to control drips.
• A pick tool helps remove stuck O-rings. A pick tool (specialty) is a small hooked tool used to lift O-rings out of grooves.

Step 4: Remove the oil filter housing and replace the cartridge

• Use the oil filter housing wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the filter housing.
• Pull out the old filter element and discard it.
• Use the pick tool (specialty) to remove the old large O-ring from the housing cap and any small O-ring(s) included in the kit (match the kit contents).
• Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) and install them in the correct grooves.
• Install the new filter element into the housing.

Step 5: Reinstall and torque the oil filter housing

• Thread the housing back on by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the oil filter housing wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) and 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the small housing drain plug using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 13 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
• Wipe everything clean with shop rags so leaks are easy to spot later.

Step 6: Reinstall the under cover

• Reinstall the skid/under cover using the 12mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extension bar (3"–6").
• Snug the bolts evenly (do not overtighten).

Step 7: Refill with new engine oil

• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole and add about 7.5 quarts of engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) first.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–45 seconds, then shut it off.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off to the full mark (typical total is about 7.9 quarts with filter, but always go by the dipstick).

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 With the engine idling, look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
• 🔎 Recheck the oil level after a short drive and top off if needed.
• 🧾 Reset the maintenance reminder (common method): set display to ODO, key OFF, press-and-hold trip reset, key ON (do not start) until the reset completes.
• ♻️ Pour used oil into the empty oil bottles and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$95 (parts only)

You Save: $65-$125 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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