🔧 Highlander - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

On your Highlander, an oil change means draining the old oil, replacing the cartridge-style oil filter element, and refilling with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects the engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the SUV on jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 20–30 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; oil can splash when the drain plug or filter housing is opened.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the drive belt and exhaust; wipe spills immediately.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8 in drive ratchet
• 3/8 in drive torque wrench
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• 3/8 in drive extension (3 in)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge element - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Engine oil drain plug gasket crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper front lift/support points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower engine cover access

• Place the drain pan (at least 10-quart) nearby.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8 in drive ratchet to remove the bolts holding the front under cover service panel.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out any plastic clips without breaking them.

Step 2: Drain the old engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8 in drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new engine oil drain plug gasket crush washer.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand, then tighten with a 3/8 in drive torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Drain and remove the oil filter housing

• Find the oil filter housing (it’s a round cap-style housing at the lower front area of the engine).
• Position the drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the filter housing.
• Use a 3/8 in drive ratchet and 3/8 in drive extension (3 in) to loosen the small drain in the center of the housing (this lets the housing drain first).
• After it drains, reinstall and tighten the small drain using a 3/8 in drive torque wrench: Torque to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8 in drive ratchet to loosen the housing cap, then remove it carefully.
• Keep downward pressure while turning.

Step 4: Replace the filter element and O-rings

• Pull the old oil filter cartridge element out of the housing.
• Use a shop rags to wipe the housing clean.
• Remove the old housing O-ring(s) and install the new oil filter housing O-ring set.
• Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh 0W-20 full synthetic using a gloved finger so they don’t pinch during tightening.
• Install the new filter element into the housing.

Step 5: Reinstall and torque the filter housing

• Thread the housing onto the engine by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) and a 3/8 in drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags.

Step 6: Reinstall the under cover access

• Reinstall the service panel using the 10mm socket and 3/8 in drive ratchet.
• Reinstall any clips using the trim clip removal tool.

Step 7: Refill with new oil

• Lower the SUV off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the oil fill cap on top of the engine.
• Use a funnel to add 0W-20 full synthetic. Start with about 6.4 quarts, then adjust after checking the dipstick.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, check leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Check for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing using safety glasses and a shop rags.
• Check the dipstick, then top off with 0W-20 full synthetic using the funnel until it’s at the full mark (don’t overfill).

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✅ After Repair

• Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly at an oil recycling drop-off.
• Reset the maintenance reminder on the dash using the steering wheel buttons. Common paths are:
• Settings (gear icon) > Vehicle Settings > Maintenance System > Oil Maintenance > Reset
• Settings (gear icon) > Vehicle Settings > Scheduled Maintenance > Yes
• Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.