🔧 RX350 - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

Changing the engine oil and oil filter keeps your RX350’s V6 lubricated and prevents engine wear. On your RX350, the oil filter is a cartridge style inside a reusable housing, so you’ll replace the filter element and O-rings, not a whole metal can.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the RX350 with jack stands (never rely on a jack alone).
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; oil can be hot enough to burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; oil will drip when the filter housing comes off.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust components to prevent smells/smoke.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter housing wrench
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Oil filter housing drain tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter element (cartridge style) - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Engine oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Raise the front of the RX350 with a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.
• Open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap (helps the crankcase vent while draining).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower access panel

• Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the small service cover bolts on the lower splash shield (undercover).
• If your cover uses clips, gently pry them with a small flathead screwdriver (a clip is a plastic fastener that pops in/out).

Step 2: Drain the engine oil

• Locate the oil drain plug on the oil pan.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
• Finish removing it by hand and let the oil drain into the drain pan.
• Remove the old crush washer and install the new drain plug gasket on the drain plug.
• Reinstall the drain plug and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Drain the oil filter housing (reduces mess)

• Locate the oil filter housing (cartridge canister) near the front/underside of the engine.
• Position the drain pan under the housing.
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the small drain plug in the center of the filter housing (it often accepts a 3/8" drive directly).
• Install the oil filter housing drain tool (specialty) to let the housing drain into the pan.
• Let it drain until it slows to a drip, then remove the drain tool.

Step 4: Remove the oil filter housing and replace the cartridge

• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter housing wrench with a 3/8" drive ratchet (and 3/8" drive extension (6") if needed) to loosen the filter housing.
• Unscrew the housing by hand and keep it upright; it will still have some oil.
• Pull the old filter element out of the housing.
• Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the old large O-ring from the housing groove. Don’t scratch the plastic housing.
• Install the new O-ring(s) from the oil filter housing O-ring set, and wipe a thin film of fresh 0W-20 on them with a gloved finger (this helps prevent pinching).
• Insert the new oil filter element into the housing.

Step 5: Reinstall the filter housing

• Screw the housing on by hand until the O-ring seats.
• Tighten using the 64mm 14-flute oil filter housing wrench and a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the small housing drain plug using a 3/8" drive ratchet, then snug it (do not over-tighten).

Step 6: Reinstall the access panel

• Reinstall the lower service cover using a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Wipe any oil residue with shop rags.

Step 7: Refill with new oil

• Lower the RX350 off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 0W-20 full synthetic. Start with 6.0 quarts.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Check the dipstick, then add oil as needed to reach the full mark (typical total with filter is about 6.4 quarts).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after a short 5–10 minute drive.
• Reset the oil maintenance reminder on the dash:
  • Turn ignition to ON (engine can be off).
  • Use the steering wheel controls to go to Settings (gear icon) on the multi-information display.
  • Select Vehicle Settings > Maintenance System > Oil Maintenance > Reset.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter element at an oil recycling center/parts store. Keep it in a sealed container.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.