🔧 Armada - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll be draining the old engine oil, replacing the oil filter, and refilling with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects your Armada’s engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone—support the Armada on jack stands.
• ⚠️ Engine oil gets very hot; let it cool 10–20 minutes to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust components.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• 14mm socket
• Oil filter wrench (band or cap style)
• Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range)
• Flat trim tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Armada on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.
• If equipped with a lower splash shield, you’ll remove a small access door/fasteners to reach the drain plug and filter.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a floor jack to raise the front of the Armada at the proper front jack point.
• Set the Armada down onto jack stands placed at the proper support points.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Access the drain plug (and splash shield if equipped)

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• If a shield blocks access, use a flat trim tool to release plastic clips and use a 3/8" drive ratchet with the appropriate fasteners to open/remove the access panel.
• Position the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5–10 minutes).
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug crush washer.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range) with a 14mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 34 N·m (25 ft-lb).
• Wipe the area clean with shop towels so you can spot leaks later.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (band or cap style) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter. If it’s stuck to the engine, peel it off with your fingers and wipe the sealing surface with shop towels.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a small film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then tighten it an additional 2/3 turn by hand.
• If you’re using a torque spec method, use a torque wrench with the proper oil filter wrench adapter and tighten: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lb).
• Hand-tight is safest for beginners.

Step 7: Reinstall splash shield/access panel (if removed)

• Reinstall the panel/clips using the flat trim tool and 3/8" drive ratchet as needed.
• Confirm nothing is hanging down and all fasteners are secure.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the Armada back to the ground using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
• Pour in 0W-20 full synthetic: start with 6.5 quarts, then you’ll top off after checking the dipstick.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert fully, then re-check.
• Top off as needed to reach the “H/Full” mark. Total fill is typically about 6.9 quarts with filter, but always use the dipstick as the final authority.
• Look underneath for any seepage at the drain plug and oil filter.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick the next day (cold engine) and adjust if needed.
• Reset the oil maintenance reminder in the gauge display using steering wheel buttons: Settings > Maintenance > Oil and Filter > Reset.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$115 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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