🔧 Altima - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

This job drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills with fresh oil to protect your engine from wear. Doing it on schedule also helps prevent sludge and keeps oil pressure stable.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 45-90 minutes

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 10-15 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks so the car can’t roll.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (3"-6")
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench (cup-style or band-style)
• Trim clip tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• Lower engine cover clips (optional) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (this helps the crankcase vent while draining).
• Plan for used-oil disposal (auto parts store recycling). Do not dump oil.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the small bolts holding the cover.
• Use a trim clip tool (specialty) to pop out plastic clips (this tool lifts the clip without breaking it).
• Set all hardware aside in a small tray.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (at least 6-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old oil drain plug crush washer (a soft metal sealing washer) from the plug.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer

• Install the new oil drain plug crush washer onto the drain plug.
• Thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 Nm range) with a 14mm socket and Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (at least 6-quart) under the oil filter area (the filter will spill oil when removed).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cup-style or band-style) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a finger).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten by hand an additional 2/3 turn.
• Hand-tight is usually perfect here.

Step 7: Reinstall the lower engine cover (if removed)

• Reposition the cover and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket to snug the bolts (do not overtighten plastic).
• Reinstall any clips using your hands or the trim clip tool (specialty).

Step 8: Refill with fresh oil

• Place a funnel in the oil fill opening.
• Pour in 4.8 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic (this is the typical refill amount with filter change).
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter using safety glasses and a light.
• Check the dipstick and top off as needed (add small amounts with the funnel).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick the next day (after sitting a few minutes) and adjust if needed.
• Wipe any spilled oil with shop rags to prevent smells and smoke.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling location.
• If your cluster shows an oil/maintenance reminder, reset it using the owner’s manual procedure for your meter display.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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