🔧 Highlander - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter cartridge, install new sealing gaskets, and refill with fresh oil. This keeps the V6 well-lubricated and prevents premature engine wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support the front of the vehicle on jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• 🧯 Let the engine cool at least 30–45 minutes; hot oil can cause serious burns.
• 🧤 Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses to protect skin and eyes from hot oil and debris.
• 🛢 Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust; wipe spills immediately.
• ♻️ Used oil and filters are hazardous waste; dispose of them at a proper recycling center or workshop.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton pair)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🧰 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 Oil filter cap wrench 64mm, 14-flute (specialty)
• 🧰 3/8" drive extension (3–6")
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Trim clip removal tool (specialty)
• 🧰 Drain pan (at least 8-liter capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (medium)
• 🧰 Shop towels or rags
• 🧰 Work gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🛢 Engine oil 0W-20 full synthetic (API SN Plus or higher) - Qty: 6 liters
• 🛢 Engine oil filter cartridge kit (with large O-ring and small drain plug for filter housing) - Qty: 1
• 🛢 Engine oil drain plug crush washer (14mm) - Qty: 1
• 🛢 Shop towels or absorbent pads - Qty: as needed
• 🛢 Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park the Highlander on a flat, solid surface. Put the transmission in Park and set the parking brake firmly.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle can’t roll.
• 🌡 Start the engine for 3–4 minutes, then shut it off. This slightly warms the oil so it drains better, but it should not be hot.
• 📦 Lay out tools and parts next to the vehicle. Keep everything within easy reach.
• 📱 You’ll reset the maintenance reminder afterwards in the dash menu: Meter Settings > Vehicle Settings > Scheduled Maintenance > Reset.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the front

• Use the floor jack under the front center jacking point (just behind the front bumper on the subframe crossmember).
• Lift until both front wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the factory pinch welds or frame support points on each side, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover access panel

• Slide the drain pan and yourself under the front of the Highlander.
• Locate the small access door in the plastic under-cover near the engine oil pan.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any bolts holding the access door.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips.
• Remove the access panel and set it aside where you won’t step on it.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug (metal pan near rear of engine, plug faces rear).
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain completely; this can take 5–10 minutes. Tipping the vehicle slightly is not needed.
• Inspect the drain plug and remove the old crush washer from it.
• Install the new crush washer onto the drain plug.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Once oil has slowed to a light drip, wipe the drain hole area clean with a rag.
• Thread the drain plug with new washer in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Wipe off any oil residue with a rag and a little brake cleaner if needed.

Step 5: Drain the oil filter housing

• Locate the black plastic oil filter housing toward the front of the engine, pointing straight down.
• The filter kit includes a small plastic drain tool or “plug.”
• Place the drain pan directly under the housing.
• Remove the small center plug on the housing using the 3/8" drive ratchet (some versions accept the square drive directly, others use a small hex; adjust as needed).
• Quickly insert the plastic drain tool from the kit into the housing center. Oil will begin draining out from the housing into the pan.
• Allow the housing to drain fully (a few minutes), then pull out the plastic drain tool.

Step 6: Remove the oil filter housing

• Install the oil filter cap wrench 64mm, 14-flute onto the housing.
• Attach the 3/8" drive ratchet and, if needed, a 3/8" extension.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove the housing. Keep the drain pan under it for any remaining oil.
• Pull out the old filter cartridge from the housing and let extra oil drip into the pan.

Step 7: Replace the filter and O-rings

• From the new filter kit, locate the large O-ring and the small O-ring (for the center drain plug).
• Use the flathead screwdriver carefully to pry off the old large O-ring from the housing body. Do not scratch the plastic.
• Remove the old small O-ring from the center plug.
• Lightly coat the new O-rings with fresh engine oil (from a new bottle) using your fingers. This helps them seal and not twist.
• Install the new large O-ring in the correct groove on the housing, making sure it is not twisted.
• Install the new small O-ring on the center plug.
• Push the new filter cartridge into the housing; it will only go in one way.

Step 8: Reinstall and torque the filter housing

• Wipe the engine-side filter mounting surface clean.
• Thread the filter housing up into place by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Install the oil filter cap wrench and use the torque wrench to tighten the housing to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the small center plug into the housing and tighten it with the 3/8" drive ratchet snugly to about 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
• Wipe off any oil from the housing and surrounding area.

Step 9: Reinstall the lower access panel

• Position the access panel back into place on the under-cover.
• Reinstall any plastic clips by pushing them straight in until they click.
• Reinstall the bolts using the 10mm socket and ratchet; just snug them, do not overtighten.

Step 10: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the Highlander slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 11: Add new engine oil

• Open the hood and secure it.
• Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine cover.
• Place the funnel in the filler opening.
• Pour in about 5.5 liters of 0W-20 synthetic oil (your engine capacity is about 5.7–5.9 liters with filter; we’ll top off after checking level).
• Reinstall the oil cap by hand and tighten snugly.

Step 12: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look under the vehicle (from the side, not underneath) for any leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
• If you see leaks, shut off the engine and carefully tighten the leaking area slightly using the correct tool.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the pan.

Step 13: Check the oil level

• Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull it out again.
• The oil level should be between the “Low” and “Full” marks, ideally near the top mark.
• If it’s below the top mark, add oil in small amounts (about 200 ml at a time) through the funnel, then recheck the level.
• Do not overfill; keep the level just under or at the Full mark.

Step 14: Reset the maintenance reminder

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine can be off) using the start button without pressing the brake.
• Use the steering wheel controls to navigate the multi-information display.
• Go to Meter Settings > Vehicle Settings > Scheduled Maintenance.
• Select Reset and confirm when prompted.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 After your first short drive (5–10 km), park on level ground and recheck the oil level with the dipstick. Top up if needed.
• 🔍 Inspect under the vehicle again for any signs of fresh oil leaks.
• 📅 Note the mileage and date of the oil change so you know when the next service is due.
• ♻️ Take used oil and the old filter to a recycling center or a local workshop that accepts waste oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50–$80 (parts only)

You Save: $70–$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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