🔧 Accord - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the spin-on oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects your engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 45-75 minutes

Assumption: factory lower engine cover (undertray) and OEM-style spin-on oil filter.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Hot oil can burn—let the engine cool 15-30 minutes before draining.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust—wipe spills right away to prevent smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and eye protection—oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 17mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• Oil filter wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty)
• Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
• Funnel
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Start the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Slightly warm oil drains faster.
• 🧰 Gather everything. Once you start draining, you don’t want to hunt for tools.
• 🧰 If you lift the front, use a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front, then place jack stands under the front support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (if equipped)

• Slide your drain pan under the engine area.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the bolts holding the cover.
• Set the cover and bolts aside so nothing gets lost.
• Tip: Arrange bolts in a small tray.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish unthreading by hand and pull the plug away quickly so oil falls into the drain pan.
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new one.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading (damaging the threads).
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with a 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags so you can spot leaks later.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty) to loosen the filter. (This tool grips the end of the filter so you can turn it.)
• Spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright as you remove it.
• Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (a stuck gasket can cause a big leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a light film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a gloved finger).
• Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
• If you choose to torque it, use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with the oil filter wrench 64mm 14-flute (specialty): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
• Tip: Hand-tight is usually safest for beginners.

Step 7: Reinstall the lower engine cover

• Position the cover back in place.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to reinstall and snug the bolts (do not overtighten).

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
• Place a funnel in the filler opening.
• Pour in 0W-20 full synthetic, starting with about 4.0 quarts.
• Wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick and top off as needed to reach the full mark. Typical fill with filter is about 4.4 quarts.

Step 9: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off, wait 2-3 minutes, then check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Recheck the dipstick and add oil if needed.

Step 10: Reset the Maintenance Minder (oil life)

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off).
• Using the steering wheel buttons, display the oil life screen on the i-MID.
• Press and hold the ENTER/SEL-RESET button until the reset screen appears, then select Reset.
• If your display shows maintenance items (A/B codes), reset the oil service item that matches the oil change.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Take a short 5-10 minute drive, park, then recheck for leaks.
• ✅ Recheck the dipstick one more time after the engine sits 5 minutes.
• ✅ Pour used oil into a sealed container and take it (and the old filter) to an oil recycling drop-off.
• ✅ Write down the mileage/date for your records.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$95 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.