🔧 Journey - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

Changing the oil and oil filter keeps your A4’s—oops, your Journey’s—engine protected by removing dirty oil and replacing it with fresh oil that meets Dodge’s spec. You’ll drain the old oil, swap the filter, then refill and verify the level on the dipstick.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

Assumption: your Journey uses the 2.4L Tigershark with a spin-on oil filter.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 10–20 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Clean spills immediately to prevent slips and smoke from oil on the exhaust.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range)
• Oil filter wrench (cap or strap type)
• Flat trim clip tool
• Phillips screwdriver

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic, MS-6395 compatible) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off (warm oil drains faster).
• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧰 Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.
• 🧰 If your Journey has a lower splash shield, plan to remove the access panel first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the Journey

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you crawl under.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield/access panel (if equipped)

• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out plastic push-clips (a trim clip tool is a flat pry tool that removes plastic fasteners without breaking them).
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove any screws holding the access panel.
• Set the clips/screws aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish removing the plug by hand and let the oil drain completely (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug and oil pan sealing surface with shop towels.
• If your plug uses a replaceable washer, install the new drain plug gasket/washer.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range) to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• Tip: hand-threading first prevents expensive damage.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (cap or strap type) to break the filter loose (an oil filter wrench grips the filter can so you can turn it).
• Spin the filter off by hand and keep it upright as you remove it to reduce mess.
• Confirm the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (it should not stay stuck on the engine).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a thin film of fresh 0W-20 engine oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger.
• Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine.
• Tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn after gasket contact (do not use the filter wrench to tighten unless the filter instructions specifically require it).

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield/access panel (if removed)

• Reposition the panel and reinstall fasteners using the Phillips screwdriver and flat trim clip tool.
• Make sure nothing is hanging down near the tires or exhaust.

Step 8: Refill the engine with oil

• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Add 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Start with about 5.0 quarts, then you’ll top off after checking the dipstick.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, then set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3–5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and around the oil filter.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert fully, then pull again to read the level.
• Add oil in small amounts (about 1/4 quart at a time) using the funnel until the level is at the full mark.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
• ✅ Wipe any spilled oil from the engine cradle/splash shield to prevent burning smells.
• ✅ Recheck the dipstick level after your first short drive and top off if needed.
• ✅ Reset the oil life reminder (if equipped): turn ignition to ON (engine off) and fully press the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 10 seconds, then turn ignition OFF.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.