🔧 Forte - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil to protect your engine from wear and sludge. Doing this on schedule is one of the best ways to keep your Forte running smoothly and avoid expensive engine repairs.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a level surface and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if you just drove.
• 🛑 Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• 🛑 Keep oil off the exhaust; it can smoke and smell on startup.
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Oil drain pan (at least 8-quart)
• Oil filter wrench (adjustable band type)
• Funnel
• Trim clip tool
• 10mm socket
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Warm oil drains faster: idle 2-3 minutes, then shut the engine off.
• A crush washer is a soft ring that seals the drain plug.
• A trim clip tool helps pop plastic clips without breaking them.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (best-effort): Your Forte uses a 17mm drain plug and SAE 5W-20, about 4.2 qt (4.0 L) with filter; always confirm on your oil cap/owner’s manual.

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the left and right front pinch welds.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove any bolts.
• Use a trim clip tool to pop out plastic clips.
• Set all hardware aside so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the oil drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 17mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old washer from the drain plug and install the new drain plug crush washer.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first (this helps prevent cross-threading).
• Use a torque wrench (10-100 Nm range) with a 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug.
• Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten; the oil pan threads can strip.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the oil drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the oil filter (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (adjustable band type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Wipe the mounting surface clean with shop rags.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the engine (double-gasket can cause a big leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Put a light film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a finger and a little fresh oil).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
• If you must use a tool, use the oil filter wrench (adjustable band type) only for a small snug—do not crush the filter.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the shield.
• Reinstall bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Reinstall clips using the trim clip tool.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the car from the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
• Use a funnel and add 4.0 quarts of SAE 5W-20 full synthetic to start.
• Reinstall the oil cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 3-5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Check the dipstick and top off slowly as needed (most end up around 4.2 quarts total with filter).
• Wipe spills with shop rags.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick the next morning (cold engine) and adjust if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter properly (most auto parts stores accept used oil).
• If your cluster has a service reminder, try: Steering wheel buttons > User Settings > Service Interval > Reset.
• Watch for drips on the driveway for the next day; a clean, dry underside means success.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$95 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.