🔧 Explorer - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil that meets Ford’s specs. This keeps your engine protected, running cooler, and extends its life.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands, never rely only on a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; hot oil can cause burns.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; oil is messy and can irritate skin.
• ⚠️ Keep tools and hands clear of the cooling fan; it can start with ignition ON.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center or parts store; never dump it.
• ⚠️ Work on solid, level ground with the parking brake fully applied.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (0–80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter cap wrench (cup-style, fits Explorer filter) (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
• Trim clip removal tool (specialty)
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel (small neck)
• Shop rags or paper towels
• Latex or nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Work light or flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-30, full synthetic, meeting Ford WSS-M2C946-B1 or later) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter (spin-on, for 3.5L EcoBoost) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer, if separate from plug) - Qty: 1
• Replacement oil drain plug - Qty: 1 (optional but recommended)
• Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Explorer on a flat, level surface and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• Run the engine for 3–5 minutes, then shut it off to warm the oil slightly for easier draining.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t need to crawl out from under the vehicle mid-job.
• You do not need to disconnect the battery for this job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front of the Explorer

• Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper on the subframe crossmember).
• Pump the floor jack handle to raise the front of the vehicle high enough to work under it safely.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Gently rock the Explorer by hand to make sure it is stable on the stands.
• Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Engine Shield (if equipped)

• Slide under the front of the Explorer with your work light.
• Locate the plastic/metal splash shield under the engine.
• Use the flathead screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips holding the shield.
• If there are small bolts, use the appropriate socket (commonly 8mm or 10mm) and your ratchet to remove them.
• Lower the shield and set it aside where you won’t step on it.

Step 3: Position the Drain Pan and Locate the Drain Plug

• Locate the engine oil pan (metal pan at the bottom of the engine).
• Find the drain plug on the rear or bottom of the pan; it uses a 15mm head on this engine.
• Slide the drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the direction the oil will flow.
• Leave space for oil to shoot forward when first loosened.

Step 4: Remove the Drain Plug and Drain the Oil

• Put on your gloves and safety glasses.
• Use the 15mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to crack the drain plug loose by turning it counterclockwise.
• Finish unscrewing the drain plug by hand while pressing inward slightly to prevent oil from leaking until the last turn.
• Quickly pull the plug away and let the oil drain fully into the drain pan.
• Inspect the drain plug and washer; replace the washer and plug if the sealing surface is damaged.
• Allow the oil to drain until it slows to an occasional drip (5–10 minutes).

Step 5: Reinstall and Torque the Drain Plug

• Clean the area around the drain hole with a shop rag.
• Install the new or cleaned drain plug (with new gasket if separate) by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug the plug.
• Switch to the torque wrench with the 15mm socket and tighten the plug to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten; the pan threads can strip.

Step 6: Remove the Old Oil Filter

• Locate the oil filter (spin-on type) near the front underside of the engine.
• Position the drain pan under the filter area; some oil will spill when you remove it.
• Fit the oil filter cap wrench onto the old filter and attach your 3/8" ratchet.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen the filter, then unscrew by hand.
• Carefully lower the old filter into the drain pan, keeping it upright to reduce spills.
• Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a clean rag and make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine.

Step 7: Install the New Oil Filter

• Take the new oil filter and add a small amount of fresh engine oil to the new rubber gasket using your finger.
• Fill the filter about 1/3 full with fresh oil if you can do so without spilling; this helps initial lubrication.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand, turning it clockwise until the gasket first contacts the mounting surface.
• Once the gasket touches, tighten the filter an additional 3/4 turn by hand. Use the oil filter cap wrench only if your hand strength is not enough.
• Filter should be snug, not “crushed tight.”

Step 8: Reinstall the Lower Engine Shield

• Lift the splash shield back into position under the engine.
• Reinstall any bolts with the appropriate socket and ratchet and tighten them snug (do not overtighten plastic parts).
• Press any plastic push clips back into place by hand or with the trim clip tool.

Step 9: Lower the Explorer to the Ground

• Use the floor jack to gently raise the front of the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle to the ground with the floor jack.

Step 10: Add New Engine Oil

• Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine; it will say “SAE 5W-30.”
• Twist the cap counterclockwise to remove it.
• Place the funnel in the oil filler opening.
• Add about 5.5 quarts of new 5W-30 oil to start (a little less than full capacity).
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand and tighten it snugly.

Step 11: Start the Engine and Check for Leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath the Explorer with your work light and check around the drain plug and oil filter for any leaks.
• If you see drips, shut the engine off and gently tighten the leaking part (drain plug with 15mm socket, filter by hand).
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes to let the oil settle back into the pan.

Step 12: Check Final Oil Level

• With the vehicle on level ground and engine off for 5 minutes, pull out the engine oil dipstick.
• Wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again.
• The oil level should be between the MIN and MAX marks, ideally near the MAX line.
• If low, add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time) through the funnel, rechecking with the dipstick each time.
• Total capacity with filter for this engine is approximately 6.0 quarts, but always use the dipstick as your final guide.

Step 13: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine can be off) so the instrument cluster is powered.
• Using the left-hand steering wheel controls, navigate the left cluster screen to: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Select Oil Life Reset and press and hold the OK button until the display shows 100%.
• If your menu wording is slightly different, look for “Oil Life,” “Oil Change,” or “Maintenance” and follow the reset prompt.

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✅ After Repair

• 🚗 Take a short 5–10 minute drive, then park on level ground and recheck for leaks underneath.
• 🧪 After the drive, wait 5 minutes and recheck the oil level with the dipstick, topping up if needed.
• 📱 Confirm the oil life display shows 100% in the cluster.
• 🛢️ Pour used oil from the drain pan into sealed containers and bring them, along with the used filter, to a recycling center or parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45–$80 (oil + filter + small supplies)

You Save: $40–$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop about 0.5–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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