🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

On your Grand Cherokee, an oil change means draining the old engine oil, replacing the oil filter element in the top-mounted filter housing, and refilling with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects the 3.6L engine from wear, heat, and sludge.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• 🔥 Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 10-20 minutes to avoid burns.
• 🧯 Keep oil off the exhaust and away from sparks; wipe spills immediately.
• 🔒 Set the parking brake and use wheel chocks before lifting the front end.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for an oil change.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• 24mm socket
• Oil filter cap socket (24mm, low-profile)
• Trim clip remover (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic, meets Chrysler MS-6395) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter element (cartridge type) - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring kit - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer or seal - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔍 Start the engine for 2-3 minutes to slightly warm the oil, then shut it off and wait 10-20 minutes.
• 🧰 Gather everything first; once you start draining, you don’t want to hunt for tools.
• 📝 Assumption: your Grand Cherokee has a lower splash shield/skid panel that may need to be removed for drain plug access.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front safely

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the vehicle at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the vehicle a firm shake test.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use a trim clip remover (specialty) to pop out plastic push-clips (a push-clip is a plastic fastener with a center pin).
• If bolts are present, remove them with a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a neat pile.

Step 3: Open the engine oil fill to help draining

• Open the hood.
• Remove the oil fill cap (by hand).
• Pull the dipstick up slightly (by hand). This helps the oil drain faster and smoother.

Step 4: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug area with shop rags.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug with a new seal

• Install the new oil drain plug crush washer or seal on the plug.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the oil filter element (top-mounted housing)

• Locate the oil filter housing on top of the engine (it has a cap with a hex shape).
• Place shop rags around the housing to catch small spills.
• Use a 24mm socket (or oil filter cap socket (24mm, low-profile)) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the filter cap.
• Lift the cap straight up; the old filter element usually comes out attached to the cap.
• Pull the old filter element off the cap (by hand).
• Remove the old O-ring(s) from the cap and install the new oil filter housing O-ring kit.
• Add a thin film of fresh oil (from the new oil bottle) to the new O-ring so it doesn’t pinch.
• Push the new oil filter element (cartridge type) onto the cap until it snaps/seats.
• Reinstall the cap by hand until snug, then tighten with the 24mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic, meets Chrysler MS-6395) - start with about 5.5 quarts.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap (by hand).

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, then set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug area, and look around the oil filter housing for seepage.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
• Check the dipstick, wipe it with a shop rag, reinsert fully, then read the level.
• Add oil in small amounts using the funnel until the level is in the safe range near the “FULL” mark.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield fasteners using the trim clip remover (specialty) and 13mm socket with 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 Recheck the dipstick after a short 5-10 minute drive; top off if needed.
• 🧼 Wipe any oil residue off the skid/splash area to prevent smoke smell.
• 🗑️ Pour used oil into the empty oil bottles and recycle it properly; most parts stores accept used oil.
• 🧠 Reset the oil life reminder: turn ignition to RUN (engine OFF), fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 10 seconds, then turn ignition OFF.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $85-$125 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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