How to Change Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2008 Honda Accord (0W-20)
Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, drain plug torque, and oil life reset
How to Change Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2008 Honda Accord (0W-20)
Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, drain plug torque, and oil life reset
🔧 Accord - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement
Changing your oil and oil filter keeps your engine lubricated and removes dirty oil and debris that can cause extra wear. On your Accord, this is a straightforward job: drain the old oil, replace the filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil life monitor.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
- ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot—let the engine cool 10-20 minutes if it was just driven.
- ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Do not crawl under a car supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (7-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute cap type) (specialty)
- Flat trim clip tool
- 10mm socket
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Run the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
- Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the oil drain faster.
- Lift the front with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
- Use a 10mm socket and flat trim clip tool to remove the bolts/clips holding the small access panel or splash shield.
- Set the bolts/clips aside so you don’t lose them.
Step 2: Drain the old engine oil
- Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.
- Use a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
- Finish removing it by hand and let the oil drain into the drain pan.
- Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new one from your parts list.
Step 3: Reinstall and torque the drain plug
- Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench with a 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 39 N·m (29 ft-lbs).
- Wipe the area clean with shop towels.
Step 4: Remove the oil filter
- Move the drain pan under the oil filter (some oil will spill).
- Use an oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute cap type) to loosen the filter counterclockwise.
- Spin the filter off by hand and let it drain into the pan.
- Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (it can stick to the engine).
Step 5: Install the new oil filter
- Put a thin film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger.
- Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand. Hand-tight is correct here.
- Wipe the filter area clean with shop towels.
Step 6: Reinstall the splash shield
- Reposition the shield/access panel.
- Use the 10mm socket and any removed clips to reinstall it snugly (do not overtighten plastic clips/bolts).
Step 7: Refill with fresh oil
- Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
- Pour in 4.4 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic (this is the typical fill with filter change).
- Reinstall the oil fill cap.
Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and verify the level
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Shut the engine off and wait 2-3 minutes for oil to settle.
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert, then check the level again.
- Add oil in small amounts as needed to reach the upper mark on the dipstick (do not overfill).
- Look under the car for any leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
Step 9: Reset the Maintenance Minder (oil life)
- Turn the key to ON (II) without starting the engine.
- Press the SEL/RESET knob/button until the oil life (%) is displayed.
- Press and hold SEL/RESET for about 10 seconds until the oil life starts blinking.
- Release, then press and hold SEL/RESET again for about 5 seconds to reset to 100%.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck the dipstick level the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
- Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly at an oil recycling drop-off.
- Keep an eye on the driveway for the next day or two—any drip means recheck the drain plug and filter tightness.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $30-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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