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2008 Honda Accord
2008 Honda Accord
EX - Inline 4 2.4L
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Honda Accord 2008-2012: How to Change Oil & Oil Filters for

Honda Accord 2008-2012: How to Change Oil & Oil Filters for

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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Change Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2008 Honda Accord (0W-20)

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, drain plug torque, and oil life reset

How to Change Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2008 Honda Accord (0W-20)

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, parts list, drain plug torque, and oil life reset

Orion
Orion

🔧 Accord - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

Changing your oil and oil filter keeps your engine lubricated and removes dirty oil and debris that can cause extra wear. On your Accord, this is a straightforward job: drain the old oil, replace the filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil life monitor.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot—let the engine cool 10-20 minutes if it was just driven.
  • ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Do not crawl under a car supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (7-quart minimum)
  • Funnel
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • Oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute cap type) (specialty)
  • Flat trim clip tool
  • 10mm socket
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Run the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
  • Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap to help the oil drain faster.
  • Lift the front with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
  • Use a 10mm socket and flat trim clip tool to remove the bolts/clips holding the small access panel or splash shield.
  • Set the bolts/clips aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 2: Drain the old engine oil

  • Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
  • Finish removing it by hand and let the oil drain into the drain pan.
  • Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new one from your parts list.

Step 3: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 39 N·m (29 ft-lbs).
  • Wipe the area clean with shop towels.

Step 4: Remove the oil filter

  • Move the drain pan under the oil filter (some oil will spill).
  • Use an oil filter wrench (65mm 14-flute cap type) to loosen the filter counterclockwise.
  • Spin the filter off by hand and let it drain into the pan.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (it can stick to the engine).

Step 5: Install the new oil filter

  • Put a thin film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger.
  • Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand. Hand-tight is correct here.
  • Wipe the filter area clean with shop towels.

Step 6: Reinstall the splash shield

  • Reposition the shield/access panel.
  • Use the 10mm socket and any removed clips to reinstall it snugly (do not overtighten plastic clips/bolts).

Step 7: Refill with fresh oil

  • Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
  • Pour in 4.4 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic (this is the typical fill with filter change).
  • Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and verify the level

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • Shut the engine off and wait 2-3 minutes for oil to settle.
  • Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert, then check the level again.
  • Add oil in small amounts as needed to reach the upper mark on the dipstick (do not overfill).
  • Look under the car for any leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 9: Reset the Maintenance Minder (oil life)

  • Turn the key to ON (II) without starting the engine.
  • Press the SEL/RESET knob/button until the oil life (%) is displayed.
  • Press and hold SEL/RESET for about 10 seconds until the oil life starts blinking.
  • Release, then press and hold SEL/RESET again for about 5 seconds to reset to 100%.

✅ After Repair

  • Recheck the dipstick level the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
  • Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly at an oil recycling drop-off.
  • Keep an eye on the driveway for the next day or two—any drip means recheck the drain plug and filter tightness.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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