🔧 Tundra - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter element, then refill with the correct oil. This keeps your engine lubricated properly and helps prevent wear and sludge buildup.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Tundra with jack stands, not just a jack.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be very hot; let it cool 15–30 minutes if needed.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off exhaust components to avoid smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is a skin irritant.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 12mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• Toyota cartridge filter housing drain tool (specialty)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 8 quarts
• Oil filter element (cartridge type) - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Raise the front using a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the fill point

• Open the hood.
• Remove the oil filler cap by hand.
• Pull the dipstick out slightly to vent the crankcase.

Step 2: Access the drain plug and filter

• If your Tundra has an under-cover/skid with an access door, remove the access door bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• If there is no access door, remove the front under-cover fasteners using a 12mm socket and flat trim tool, then lower the panel.
• Position a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Loosen and remove the drain plug using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to a drip (typically 10–15 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug clean with shop rags.
• Replace the drain plug crush washer (gasket) with the new one from your parts kit.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Drain the oil filter housing (cartridge filter)

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter housing area.
• Remove the small filter housing drain plug using a 3/8" drive ratchet (square drive).
• Install the Toyota cartridge filter housing drain tool (specialty) and let the housing drain. (This tool is a small adapter that lets the housing drain cleanly.)
• Remove the drain tool and wipe the area with shop rags.

Step 6: Remove the filter housing and replace the filter element

• Use a 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the housing.
• Lower the housing carefully; more oil will spill, so keep the drain pan positioned underneath.
• Pull the old filter element out and install the new filter element.
• Remove the old large O-ring from the housing and install the new large O-ring.
• Replace the small O-ring on the drain plug (if included in your kit).
• Lightly coat the O-rings with fresh 0W-20 engine oil using a gloved finger. Prevents pinched seals.

Step 7: Reinstall the filter housing

• Thread the housing in by hand until it seats.
• Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench and 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the small drain plug using a 3/8" drive ratchet and snug it firmly (do not over-tighten).

Step 8: Reinstall the under-cover/skid

• Reinstall the access door or under-cover using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Make sure all clips/bolts are fully seated before lowering the truck.

Step 9: Refill with new oil

• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill neck.
• Add 0W-20 full synthetic oil: start with about 7.5 quarts, then top off as needed.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand.

Step 10: Start, check leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
• Check the dipstick, and top off to the full mark using the funnel.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter properly (most auto parts stores accept used oil).
• Reset the maintenance reminder:
  • With the ignition ON (engine OFF), use the steering wheel/cluster controls to go to Settings > Vehicle Settings > Maintenance System, then reset the oil maintenance item (if your cluster menu has it).
  • If your cluster uses the trip reset method: set the display to Trip A, turn ignition OFF, press and hold the trip reset button, turn ignition ON (engine OFF) and keep holding until the reset completes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$95 (parts only)

You Save: $65-$105 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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