🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills with fresh oil. Clean oil protects your turbo diesel’s bearings and helps prevent sludge and premature wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the SUV on jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Oil and exhaust parts can be hot—let it cool if it’s too hot to touch safely.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is harmful to skin.
• ⚠️ Keep rags handy—diesel engines can hold a lot of oil and it drains fast.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 12-quart capacity)
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• 27mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• Funnel
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil filter cartridge (with new O-rings) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer/seal - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (5W-40 full synthetic, diesel-rated) - Qty: 10 quarts

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Run the engine 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap so the crankcase can vent while draining.
• If your Grand Cherokee has a lower splash shield/skid plate, you may need to remove or loosen it for access (use the flat trim tool for push-clips).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front safely at the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame/support points and lower onto them.
• Give the SUV a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going under.

Step 2: Remove the lower shield (if equipped)

• Use the flat trim tool to pop out plastic push-clips (a trim tool is a flat pry tool that removes clips without breaking them).
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket if there are bolts holding the panel.
• Set all clips/bolts aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (at least 12-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 10–15 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug with a new seal

• Wipe the drain plug area clean with shop rags.
• Install the new oil drain plug crush washer/seal on the drain plug.
• Thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench and 13mm socket.
• Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the oil filter (top-mounted cartridge)

• From the top of the engine, place shop rags around the oil filter housing to catch drips.
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 27mm socket to loosen the oil filter cap (turn counterclockwise).
• Lift the cap and filter element out together, then pull the old filter cartridge off the cap by hand.
• Replace the O-ring(s) on the cap using the new ones from the filter kit (lightly coat them with fresh oil first so they don’t pinch).
• Push the new filter cartridge onto the cap until it seats firmly.
• Reinstall the cap by hand first, then tighten with the 3/8" drive torque wrench and 27mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Refill with new oil

• Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
• Pour in 9.0 quarts of engine oil (5W-40 full synthetic, diesel-rated) to start.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 7: Start, check for leaks, and set the final level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug. Look on top for leaks around the filter cap.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check the dipstick level, then add oil in small amounts (about 1/4 quart at a time) using the funnel.
• Typical total fill is about 9.5–10.0 quarts with filter—always finalize by the dipstick, not the number.

Step 8: Reinstall the lower shield and lower the SUV

• Reinstall the splash shield/skid plate using the flat trim tool for clips and 3/8" drive ratchet with 13mm socket for bolts.
• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, and lower the SUV.

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✅ After Repair

• Re-check the dipstick after a short 5–10 minute drive and top off if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter properly at an oil recycling center/parts store.
• Reset oil reminder (if equipped): turn key to ON (engine off), press the accelerator fully 3 times within 10 seconds, then turn key OFF.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $160-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $75-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $85-$140 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.